So today on my sewing schedule is to attach Fredrik's sleeves to his coat. We did the fitting last night, and despite feeling like I battled with a 170lbs (ish? I have no idea how much Fredrik weighs..) dead body mannequin (the boy doesn't want to put his arms up for me...) I got the sleeves fitted and lined up the back seam really nicely. I'm fairly happy with the fit, there isn't too much creasing etc. Hopefully I did it the correct way. I know that coat sleeves are not fit the same way as gown sleeves, so hopefully this will work. It's really difficult doing all this sewing without any books to reference while doing this. Blind sewing if you will.

But I've been doing some thinking, about what to do with this blog once I've completed these massive projects. So, I'm considering some things, and I'm just going to throw some ideas out there.

First off, after I recieve my feedback about it, is to bring information I've gained about stays and comfort and take my dissertation and 'blog-ify' it. I really want to share what I know because, frankly, I'm really fed up with this whole screwed up mentality that women wore stays too tight, all the time, and had messed up bodies, health issues, etc strictly due to the fact that 'all' women tight laced their stays and stays were uncomfortable. I'm really, really, really, really, fed up with that, simply, wrong point of view that has been tainted by many aspects. However, with that, I can't lie when I say that I am not concerned about someone taking my research and my information from blogsphere and using it to their own devices. I put in a lot of work on this dissertation, and though it is not publish, since it is a master's thesis it qualifies as unpublished research that should be cited. I do know that there have been some people in blogsphere that take other people's research and pass it off as their own, and since I've done my degree in costume history, I don't want this to happen to me. Of course, if someone wishes to use my information and cite me, that's a different story, but I am not a fan of stealing other people's research.

Another issue with this, is I don't want to piss off the British museum and other sources by using their images illegally (pot calling the kettle black, basically). Also, I have images from my personal research that I am not allowed to use without permission (reasons why on the forum I often say I've seen but never post pictures, it's because I don't want to get in trouble, because more than likely, I actually have the pictures.)

So that's where I stand. I really want to start posting about the research I've done or am doing, but I have to figure out how to do it without threatening my academic credibility.

Another thing I am thinking about is what my next projects will be after I finish Fredrik's costume and my gown. So here is what I am thinking of for future projects, and not all of these have to do with 18th century.

1. A woman's quilted waistcoat (they're so easy in pattern, I think it might actually be fun because it's strictly a decorative project compared to construction.)

2. Officially start learning how to drape and try and drape my own gown or jacket or something. Probably for my mom. She's becoming the next Tasha Tudor.

3. Bust out my Tudor Tailor book and begin working on a Tudor gown. I have to be honest, I don't know which love came first, Tudor England (go Anne Boleyn!) or 18th century. Probably Tudor, and I have spent a lot of personal time studying the costumes, and I just think it's time to finally go into doing one right. I really hate seeing costumes that are just not up to snuff. The fits are just wrong wrong wrong (The other Boleyn girl anyone?) And it drives me bonkers. So I think a proper gown is next on the list. Nothing too over the top, though.

4. Looking further into Edwardian gowns and fashion. Spending a year in the UK has brought the First World War into my mindsphere, and I'm extremely taken with the elegence of Edwardian clothing. I think it would be quite fun to try my hand at this style. Also, their corsetry looks like a good time. :)

And finally, I'm developing my Christmas list, to finally complete my costume book collection, and sewing needs. I have to have something to do this winter at home...depending on my unemployment. :)

Ok, time to go sew sleeves.


  1. I would love to hear your thoughts on corsets! I know I personally would never think of taking someone else's ideas without giving credit (if I find something awesome on a blog, I post a link to the blog on my site rather than quoting), but I know a lot of people do it and I'd hate for that to happen to your dis

    I haven't looked into Tudor fashions, but I do have a general idea of what they look like. How is the fit of the gown incorrect in The Other Boleyn Girl? I was thinking of recreating one of the gowns, but I want to do it historically accurate. I'd love your thoughts on how the gown should fit and how the movie costumes were incorrect.

  2. Totally understand the dilemma about whether to share the dissertation research or not....i look forward to hearing what you decide.

    I am excited to see you start making some Tudor clothing....but the early 20th C clothing would be fun too! I think you should pick one time period and do all the layers from the inside out..just trying to decide which one to do first is hard.

    If you want to do some draping come to Cairo and you can practice on me! Actually I think you have watched me and J do it enough that you are ready to try doing it on your own. We can Skype if you have any questions.

    If you need any more ideas for your Chrismas booklist check out my list on my blog.

  3. Costume Queen- Yeah, ethics with costume history blogging need to be laid out a bit better in my opinion. Technically, if you publish something on a website (like your blog) you should be protected by American copyright laws, at least. Some people might not mind having their information lifted and copied in someone else's blog (or having bloggers take someone's information from conversations, lectures, etc, and not cite it), but I am definitely not ok with it. As for pictures, I know I've been granted permission to use some images for non-profit academic work, which I guess my blog would qualify as. And there is also the whole thing of so many images are already floating around the net. I've used images before from WebGallery of Art, and I generally don't think it's an issue if you properly cite the image. If I wasn't concerned about my academic credibility, I wouldn't worry about it so much.

    As for Tudor, my one reccommendation for you is to watch Anne of the Thousand Days and compare that to The Other Boleyn Girl. When I speak of fit, I'm mostly regarding the heinous green dress that Natalie Portman wears. Also there's a serious issue with weird fabric choices and regional clothing infiltrating English courtwear (a Cranach gown, which is very German and shows no evidence of influencing French, Italian, Spanish, English Fashion as far as my research shows.) I can write more indepth about it in a blog, but I would just really look at Anne of a Thousand Days for Tudor Gowns that are more accurate in design and fit. The movie is great too! It's a favorite! :D'

    MMinC- I'll probably start with Tudor because I've been more interested in it for a lot longer, and I have the skills and patterns I need to make all the layers, plus I would really like to look into making a chemise with some nice blackwork on the sleeves etc. :) Time to put my Tudor Tailor book to use...Wanna help me shop for fabrics? :)

    We'll definitely be skyping about the draping. I think I can definitely do the front bodice and the sleeves, but I'm just a bit unsure about the backs...for obvious reasons. I would really like to try and drap a sacque back..jacket, gown, whatever. That's the only thing I haven't made it feels like! Once I finally manage to come to Cairo I'll be more than happy to use you as my guinea pig, or if I'm around in August in Williamsburg! :D

    Thanks for the book list too by the way :)

  4. I really hope you decide to share what you've learned about stays! I am new to the hobby and just learning and research is slow going. I am trying to figure out the differences between stays, jumps, waistcoats and who wore what and when. Looking forward to reading more!


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