Draping a Robe a la Polonaise
|Back view of Sapphire's Robe a la Polonaise with some piecing|
4 hours together we managed to do a fitting (the bodice was perfect I was so excited...did you know this is my first time draping on someone?) and drape the shoulder straps, the front/side, and the sleeves. Though when draping and cutting the sleeves, I cut them out without seam allowance so they're super tight, and you can see my oversized shift bulging out in the picture above. However, it worked out just fine in the shoulder without seam allowance, so I am very please with that.
|Front view with a too narrow petticoat|
I am not that kind of person. If I do it that way, I usually make a mistake in my numbering. There's a reason I date an engineer, he does the math.
So I knew a few things going into draping this part of the gown.
1. Sapphire wants to look like an atomic cupcake. This means you need lots of volume in the skirts. The back panels were NOT wide enough in the skirt section. This means I need more fabric in the sides.
2. I'm doing 2 pleats in the side to get the shape I want. I know in Norah Waugh's book there is also a method of cutting the pattern carefully, but let's be frank, that's way too much like work and the pleating method is much easier. I find the pleating method to be a good way to work in extra fabric for volume, and also accurate with this kind of front. You have more control over the way it drapes, the angle, and the fabric is sturdier than having a sliver of fabric dangling around to be sewn in.
3. Pleating is easier than cutting small pieces.
So I literally took a length of fabric, did a guesstimation of how wide I wanted it to be, cut out a corner so you had some skirt panels and then the bodice section. I then just pinned down the end to the side seam focusing on making a pretty curve. Then I piddled with the pleats until I got the fabric hanging the way I wanted to, the pleats in a pretty shape and as smooth as possible with pins, and Sapphire was happy. I then cut out the extra fabric in the arms eye and neckline. Done. It took probably around 20 minutes for the initial drape and then an extra 30 or so with piddling with the pleats, arm's eye, etc. The result is the picture at the top of the post. I'm really quite pleased with it.
My challenges with the back: fixing the piecing and elongating the CB seam just an inch or 2.
Shoulder straps & Sleeves: Tweaking the shoulder straps mostly and getting everything nicely organized and in the proper shape and length. I also need to remember to cut out seam allowance with the sleeves. har har.
Everything else I'm just dandy with. I might shorten the front just a tad, but I'm a little worried to ruin the front's fit...cause I'm that happy with how smooth it is right now.
Also, I need to finish her stays. I have the binding on, but now am putting in the lining, so obviously, I can do all the fittings I want, she'll just have some loose lining. No biggie. I'm happy with the stays, a few concerns, but overall I'm quite pleased. I'll post more on those later. This is already a monster post.
|Lots of fabric!|
It's a unique combination of fabrics, colors, and prints, but once completed it should be fantastic. I'm already loving it right now, so I'm just assuming it will be better when completed.
That's it for now with sewing. I'll write about her stays later. Right now I need to get back to paper stuff. Wee! (P.S. Doesn't the picture on the right have a disheveled 17th century look to it? Minus the modern kitchen in the back?) <3 <3