Stay-ing Alive: Historical Dress Adventures and Ramblings

I'm so excited...

2011-10-25T21:59:00.003-04:00

....to be able to share the news with you lovely lovely people!

Ready?

I'm engaged to the Swede!

AH! SO. Excited!

F just went back to Sweden after a 10 day visit to Virginia and it was heavenly. He proposed on Chincoteague Island (where the wild ponies are, etc....Misty of Chincoteague) in a park. On a bench. With the sun low in the autumn sky.

And he asked me with this:

1935. Belais Brothers 18k white gold engagement ring.

When I saw it, I did this:

But with out the over dramatic music...mostly just that weird noise.

Then I asked if it was real.

He said yes.

Then I asked if he was going to ask me to marry him.

He then said yes again.

Then he asked me to marry him.

I then said yes.

Then I told him he had to put the ring on my finger.

And it fit, perfectly.

And now.... It's another visa process procedure...hopefully the last one we'll have to do for a while. :)

*Waves at USCIS*

<3 <3

What I did on my summer (not) vacation, 2011

2011-09-21T19:13:00.004-04:00

So...

I don't know if you've noticed or not, but I've been...um..how do you say...absent (har har!). I wrote a blog about my absence, but now I am pleased to inform you loverly loverly people that

I'm baaaaacccckkkk!

Muah ha ha ha ha! Things are, eventually, going to slow down for me....hopefully(...?)

Anyways, my first post is going to be about what I've been doing on my summer (not) vacation. When I came to Colonial Williamsburg, I was originally hired to work in a historic area job, as a way to get my foot in the door. Then, a fantastic opportunity came my way. I was hired (temporarily) to be a specialty tailor for the Colonial Williamsburg/Preservation Virginia collaboration for Historic Jamestown. They are putting on special programs every month or week or so (something like that), where they have actor interpreters come and portray a character from Jamestown's history. The Costume Design Center of Colonial Williamsburg recieved special funding to create historically accurate costumes for the actors to wear.

My job was to pattern and make some of these costumes. Lots of hand-sewing and a lot of learning about 17th century menswear..

it wasn't exactly my strong point before hand. In fact, I had no friggin' idea what the world I was doing.

No. Idea.

Anyways, I've learned tons and tons about making doublets and trunk hose and fittings, and all sorts of insane things like peascod bellies, and ruffs, and lace making, and finger braiding, etc etc so on and so forth! The main project (6 weeks) was to make a full ensemble for the actor playing Sir Thomas Dale.

I spent a great deal of time picking the CW Historic Tailors' brains for information on how to measure and pattern for doublets and trunk hose. I was given fantastic Swiss books for me to oogle over. (oh those Swiss books....I miss them).

At the Costume Design Center, the women in accessories spent 6 weeks making silver lace for trim and a 100% hand sewn ruff (19 yards rolled hem and cartridge pleated, french knots, decorative back stitching...it took her a month to make it. No kidding.) This project was awesome.

There was one major meltdown on my part, where the chest of the doublet didn't quite fit, but luckily it was an easy fix (and I may or may not have threatened the actor with a riding crop if his chest didn't fit...but that's a different story for a different day... :) )

The greatest news? We finished on time. ON TIME. Almost EARLY.

Does that ever happen?!

Anyways, I am extremely pleased with the final product, and I feel so fortunate to have been given this opportunity to learn so much about historical tailoring, 17th century dress, and menswear especially. If you are in the area, and you can attend one of these events, I heartily recommend it!

Alright enough gabbering...here are the goods:

Here is an innards shot

Close up shot of the buttons/fabric/and trim. The buttons were hand done with silk twist and silver thread

Slightly blurry shot of the finger braided button loops, and more trim.

Yes. This ruff was sewn by hand. Completely.

The finished product!

Here is the back view.

Designs, materials, labor are all Costume Design Center, and the shoes were from Sarah Juniper. The doublet was 95% hand sewn with only a few machine seams (arms, and the long seams of the trunk hose, etc). Everything else = my or someone else's hands.

My fingers are still recovering.

Well...it feels good to be back, and I'm looking forward to doing more blogging as I now have plenty to write about!

<3 <3

**Special Thank you to Brenda Rosseau (my boss) for letting me post these pictures online. They are all property of The Costume Design Center of Colonial Williamsburg**

Burnley and Trowbridge Gown Workshop Recap

2011-08-01T20:40:00.001-04:00

Last weekend I had the most amazing opportunity to be an 'assistant/model' for the Burnley and Trowbridge Gown workshop that was being taught by Journeywoman Milliner & Mantua-maker Brooke. Brooke has been home from abroad for about a month, and she took this one weekend to really exercise her gown making muscles. She's one of my dear friends and it was great to see her again and to see her doing her thing (cause she is a genius at draping/cutting/fitting gown making in general).

The participants were all diverse and awesome, sadly (or luckily?) one participant wasn't able to attend due to a calamity of events and so it left one participant (Norah) sans partner...until I arrived! Muah- ha ha ha ha! This was the first time I really got to use all that mantua making training I have received through osmosis. It was stellar. I got to really nit-pick at her gown and fitting to get it as perfect as possible. I am really pleased with the result, and I'm excited to see her final gown. She didn't have that much more to do so she should be done soon (hint hint hint...).

Since my main job was a model, I got to have a lot of fun making the workshop participants and Brooke laugh, cause I was totally a Vaudeville comedienne in a past life. Brooke also let me talk to the ladies about historical accuracy, construction quality, and stitches.

To sum it up: Neat is nice, but messy is pretty damn accurate. I stressed this because with the modern sewing mentality, neat stitches = good and sloppy stitches = bad. For the 18th century, that was not the case. There can be beautiful gowns that look so perfect, and then you open up and look inside and barf it's a hot mess inside. Or you can just be a narsty gown (narsty is worse than nasty, btw :) ), like a remade gown from the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. It's just...ugh...a total hot mess of a gown. It's remade, pieced within an inch of it's life (not even pretty piecing, but narsty piecing). They even used pumpkin orange thread on a deep raspberry colored silk...why? who the hell knows. Crazy ladies made that gown. Crazy ladies.

That conversation lead into an in-depth discussion on textiles and extant garments, and Angela busted out tons and tons of images from her most recent trip to England (specifically going through the billet books of the Foundling Museum) and it was ah-mazing seeing some examples of all the fabrics she was able to look at. It also started an interesting discussion of common fabrics that would have been found in common gowns. I'm not an expert in colors/dye processing/fabrics etc. So it's an interesting debate, especially when you get into the idea of greens and bright pinks in fabrics other than silk (cause acid green and bright pink were in available in silk). But what about the use of the color in linen or cotton? It's an interesting debate and I usually just keep my mouth shut and let the textile expert educate me.

Do you know of any bright pink gowns that are cotton or linen? Cause...if you do...wanna share? Yes? Please?

Ok, enough jabbering, here are some photos courtesy of Burnely and Trowbridge!

Brooke explaining sleeve construction. Notice how fabulous her gown fits...

Getting draped and using Brooke as a hand rest. It's hard work.

I have no idea what's going on here, but I crack up every time I see this picture.

Draping the back of Norah's gown

Sunday, Brooke explaining how to fit the bodice fronts to back

Fitting Norah

Still fitting Norah....

Explaining an easy way of fitting sleeves.

Nit picking on Norah's sleeves. I'm super happy with the fit of Norah's gown. I hope she is too!

If you would like to see more photos from the workshop you can go to Burnley and Trowbridge's Facebook page and look through the images there. :)

So that's the wrap up from me! Next time I should have images of my own garments for ya'll.

<3 <3

Absence

2011-07-30T16:36:00.002-04:00

Howdy Strangers.

It's been a while since I've wrote. What can I say? I've had other things going on and, to be frank, I just have felt no desire whatsoever to blog. I'm going through a very angsty blog phase at the moment and I am having a really hard time even writing this. I have a recap of the Burnley and Trowbrige Gown workshop from last week too, that should be picture heavy. I'll write that, maybe, tomorrow...better be tomorrow as once Monday hits, I'll be distracted with excuses to not write on the blog.

Some of the reasons I've been absent have been explained on the blog already. I am almost always sewing. I sew, by hand, 8 hours a day on 17th century doublets (I just spent 3 days sewing button holes, for example.) Brooke is in town and since she loves me (and I love her) she's draped me a few things and is working with me on some clothing. Which I will be sharing with you when it is constructed. It's a surprise and I can promise you, you've never seen it & that it will be fabulous.

Another reason is that the past 2.5 weeks F has been visiting from Sweden. So I've, obviously, devoted all my time to him. He left last week and since then it has been working, workshoping, and working. Today has been my first day "off". I went and saw Harry Potter by myself, it was glorious.

Next time I blog, it will hopefully be happier....well it will be, because there are some hilarious pictures I'm going to post for your lol-ing pleasure.

I also hope that I'll be able to go back to blogging as normal and not go over a month without writing. I will finally have things I can blog about, and hopefully they will be drama free.

I really really hate drama.

I really really like cookies.

And inverted back pleats with stripes.

<3 <3

Next time on Stay-ing Alive: The Burnley and Trowbridge English Gown recap, with pictures! Yay! Pictures!

[Edit: Everything is resolved now. :) ]

Way to go BBC!

2011-06-27T11:00:00.000-04:00

Have you seen this? Your Paintings - Bookmark it now.

"Your Paintings" a "joint initiative between the BBC, the Public Catalogue Foundation (a registered charity) and participating collections and museums from across the UK." to put all of the UK national paintings online in one place.

It's easily searchable and their goal is to get 200,000 paintings online in one easily accessible place. They have 63,000 already (so tons and tons) to search through, so I think we have time to keep busy looking at new and different portraits until everything is online. So far I have been impressed with the more 'folk arty' portraits that are cruder than what I'm used to seeing in the UK galleries. A breath of fresh air for costume, if you will.

Life is rough, eh?

Oh, and they are having people 'tag' paintings. I forsee dress historians getting into nit picky fights about what is what...no?

What an age we live in. Gotta love it!

Gown and Petticoat in a Week: Or How I Almost Died.

2011-06-26T12:08:00.000-04:00

So, as you know my cry for help came a couple days ago. Let's just say...things were getting rough. (Special Thank you to Cherry for volunteering to help me, I'm sorry I never emailed you back, it was just way too hectic!) Luckily, I survived. And tomorrow I'm back to Sapphire's gown.

This weekend (it ends today) was "Under the Redcoat" at Colonial Williamsburg. It's a mass re-enaction of when the British took over Williamsburg during the Revolutionary War. Lots of people come and dress up.

It's fun. Especially Saturday night, but that's a different story. This is about how my new stays changed my shape so much that nothing fits me anymore and the only thing that probably would fit me is more 1791 instead of 1781. Obviously, that's an issue.

So, not to be left out of the fun, I decided to make myself a gown.

In a week.

Do you know how long it takes to hem a 240" petticoat flounce on 2 sides?

A. Long. Freakin'. Time.

Long time.

Sarah, the apprentice Milliner/Mantua maker, did my draping and I did the jankiest sewing of all time. She also was sweet enough help me sew one evening while we watched House of Elliot and ate pizza. My friend Katie who came down from DC to surprise indentured servitude and sewed the hem to the gown. I need to point that out to you, because if I don't. She'll hate me.

But it came together at 12:30 yesterday afternoon. I didn't have time to trim the gown properly as I would like, but I did put my necktucker and elbow ruffles in to make it fancier and prettier.

Overall I'm happy with it and the fit, there were some stupid mistakes and things I needed to fix, but I was pulling 17+ hour sewing days (I sew at work all day) and I have a cold, so it was just a miracle that I didn't actually keel over.

The fabric is a changable silk taffeta for the gown and a silk satin organza for the petticoat. Everything is hand sewn. And all fabrics (minus the hat) come from Burnley and Trowbridge.

I am their walking advertisement.

The gown is an English gown with a fitted back with center front closing. The skirts have been tied up in the back and I have a bum roll underneath to help hold out the fabric. The hat is not mine, I borrowed it from the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. I'm sorry I don't have more pictures. I was totally spaced, and as a CW employee and not a re-enactor (even though I was on my own time in my own clothes) I didn't walk around taking pictures, etc. There are rules about that sort of thing. If more photos of me and the girls pop up from our afternoon walk, I'll link them up.

Finally, if you want to check out more photos of the Silk Saturday Walk go to the Marget Hunter Millinery Facebook Page. Sarah has been awesome and has already posted photos!

Alright...that's it for now...I'm going to go back to eating ice cream and watching movies in my pjs. Apologies for the choppy blog post. That's kind of how things are working for me at the moment....

Help?

2011-06-23T18:07:00.002-04:00

Who wants to come over and help me sew?

Anyone?

Hello?

Bueller?

Bueller?

Bueller?

*Crickets*

M.I.A.

2011-06-18T21:43:00.000-04:00

So...

It's been a bit quiet 'round these parts as of...well...May.

I have learned 1 thing through all of this:

Blogging is not easily done with a full time job.

Please accept my humble apologies, as I've been too busy making things instead of blogging.

Now, I'm going to update you for a hot second before I get back to doing what I really need to be doing.

I'm currently sewing my bum off.

Literally...

it's gone...

Here's the deal:

I was hired by Colonial Williamsburg this summer to work as an Orientation Interpreter (hopefully translating over into a full time position of some variety). 2 weeks into training, an amazing position came my way to work for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation's Costume Design Center (now referred to as the CDC) as a specialist tailor for events at Jamestown.

What does this mean?

1. Well, I'm working in my field (huzzah!) 2. I sew all day. Every day. I'm going to need a massage and a break after July is over.

I also have other projects.

Sapphire's gown has a deadline of July 20th.

Next weekend is Under the Redcoat at CW and with my new stays (whoa baby) I need new clothes, cause NOTHING FITS (totally in the good way). So I'm in the ultimate tag team.

Day time is 17th century stuff.

Evening is either Sapphire's stuff OR Petticoat with 240" flounce needing hemming on both sides OR English gown that I just now got the pieces cut out for that needs to be done by Saturday.

As in 1 week from now.

Ideally, I would like to trim the gown, but I'm not going to kid myself.

Oh and my stays still need to be bound on the bottom and lined. Yeah...that's not going to happy until August.

So, the point of my random post is this:

Pray for me and pass the margaritas.

<3

Summer Burnley & Trowbridge GOWN Workshop!

2011-06-02T12:26:00.000-04:00

Photo Courtesy of Burnley and Trowbridge. (Gown workshop Nov 2009)

The summer Burnley and Trowbridge workshop has been posted on their website here.

It's for the classic fitted back English gown (robe a l'anglais) with a pleated back and will be taught by Brooke Welborn, Journeywoman of Millinery and Mantua-Making.

She's brillz.

Absolutely brilliant.

Photo Courtesy of B&T (Gown Workshop Nov 2009)

And...

I will be there!

So sign up.

Do. it.

NOW! :)

Click to go to B&T website

Photo Courtesy of B&T. Gown Workshop Nov 2009.

See you there!

<3 <3

Workshop Stays - Where are they now?

2011-05-30T09:18:00.000-04:00

So, there has been quite a bit of talk on this blog in the past few months about the Burnley and Trowbridge Stays workshop, and my stays that came from that workshop.

Then. I got busy. (moving, job, sewing, etc so on and so forth)

And quiet on the blog.

I broke my own blog rules...

But they're the only rules I can break without getting hives, so I'm ok with that.

Anyways, though I've been quiet on my blog, this does not mean I haven't been busy. I've been working on Sapphire's gown and my stays. Tag teaming, basically, as they are both crucial to finish for my mental sanity.

My stays are thisclose to being finished. There were a couple bumps on the way, but now everything is good and I'm in the final processes...instead of verbalizing what was going on, I'll just show you pictures, because, let's be honest, that's more fun anyways.

the innards. You can see where the boning, and linen have been chiseled off
leaving the worsted wool to be folded over and casted down. Also you can see where
I've been lazy and haven't casted down the seams (I'm doing it as I go along).

The outside shot. The tabs have not been split yet, but I have started shaping
the boning to help with comfort.

The extension of my front tabs.

As it turned out, the front of my stays were too short. When I tried them on with boning, the front was pushing into my stomach instead of smoothing the front. I was instructed to extend the boning channels, add piecing where needed, move the boning down, and cut away the ugly for binding. There's talk of adding buckram to that section to help stiffen this section of the stays.

Note: the addition of buckram (stiffened linen) or pasteboard (really stiff cardboard) to this part of stays was actually quite common. There are countless extant stays (countless because I haven't bothered to count them, and I feel as though that would be a slightly silly and laborious process.) with this feature. I could also use a busk. Going off and rambling...there is a fantastic pair of stays in the Liverpool collection that have never been worn, are fully boned and date to the mid 1770s. The interior workings of these stays are intense. There's lots of pasteboard, and interior boning work (the bow across the bust and additional boning angling from the top of the bust/rib cage in towards the waist.) They're stellar stays, in perfect condition (lining in perfect condition). It was really great to examine them a bagillion years ago.

Hand-sewn channels.

My eyelets. I need to add leather to the outside to help make them last.

I have also been working on shaping the stays to help fit my figure
so you can *hopefully* see how the tabs are already flaring out and (you
def can't see this) how the upper part is curving slightly inward into my back.

Alright. I'm going to go and actually work on this sucker...I can see the light at the end of the tunnel....which includes altering all of my clothes since these stays (and potentially weight loss) have changed my shape so much.

But that's for a later post.

Happy Memorial Day <3

Moving, Insanity, etc.

2011-05-19T09:32:00.000-04:00

Sorry it's been so quiet here. Life got hectic and I'm just kind of enjoying the flow.....(insert a Jack Johnson song and can someone pass a margarita?)

Here's the news:

I've moved to Williamsburg! Huzzah! I've gotten a job in the historic district that is only for the summer (as of now), but hopefully something permanent will come from this. Keeping fingers crossed etc so on and so forth.

With that in mind, I really don't know what will happen to my blogging. I will be doing a lot more sewing, I still have more "Scott Sisters" stuff to show you, and I still need to discuss my survey results (this is kind of like my Masters dissertation, I need to step away from the research for a while to decompress), and being in Williamsburg, I'm going to be doing a hell of a lot more sewing (post Sapphire's gown and my stays need to be finished...so. close....sooooo....close!)

So, that's about the extent of it. The job starts on Monday and I've been running around like a chicken with my head cut off trying to get everything taken care of. Things should slow down once the job has settled in, etc.

That's it for now!

<3 <3

The Scott Sisters' Pieces 2: Aunt May & the County Fair

2011-05-09T10:35:00.000-04:00

I never met Aunt May (obivously)

But I love her.

Dearly.

She's a good partner at cards (I'm not kidding) as is her husband Uncle Louis (seriously, ask my mom about how they helped us with our card games).

And damn could my aunt darn and make button holes.

I mean. Damn.

The woman was beyond great. She was so great in fact, she entered samples to the county fair.

I just love county fairs....where else could you have competitions about sock darning and button holes?

Anyways, they were kept for keepsakes and now I am in possession of them and they kill me. I hope I can be as good at this one day. Doubtful, as I'm impatient, but at least I know it's in the blood....

right?

Right?

First, we have the sock darning competition:

Side note: the quality of this sock is really fine as well.

Check that out. I wouldn't know the first thing to do!

Another small hole

And the final hole.

Don't you just feel slightly inferior right about now? I think it's time to take away the tv and computers so we can practice our darning. Next, are the button holes....now in all seriousness, I really wish I knew how Aunt May did these...as this is an extremely useful skill to have for 18th century sewing. (Aunt May, can you please pass down this skill to me? Please? Please?)

The button hole sample

Aren't they beautiful? The fabric is a silk & the stitches are tiny.

I have no idea if Aunt May won, though I'm inclined to believe she did since these were kept in the family. I do also know that Aunt May was the 'go-to' if you ever needed button holes for your clothes before she passed away.

I think we should bring back sock darning and button hole competitions to the county/state fairs. Far more interesting than best tomato (unless it's a giant tomato....those competitions are always fun).

<3 <3

The Scott Sisters' Pieces 1: Baby Clothes

2011-05-06T23:32:00.002-04:00

My maternal grandfather's family all lived in Miami County, Ohio since the early 19th century. Many of the children were women throughout the generations and towards the end of the 19th century that side of my family consisted of:

Mary Ellen ('nee Farver) Scott (1841-1913) and married Samuel Sproul Scott (1873)

Their children:
John Gustave Scott (my great grandfather) April 29^th 1877 – May 10^th 1965
(Aunt) Grace (We call all the sisters Aunt ** even today) Sept 12^th 1880 - April 1^st 1975

Jean : Dec 22^nd 1881 – Feb 13^th 1967

May: May 19^th 1883 – Oct 24^th 1966

Sarah 1875-1902

Emma 1886-1904

Keep in mind their names for the rest of this series, cause it can get confusing. K? k. :)

-------------------------------------------------------

These women and the rest of my family were smart enough to keep some of their personal possessions in cedar trunks for decades (decaaaaaddddddeeeeesssss). Also, amazingly, these women were insanely talented with sewing and some lace making.

Guess who now owns these pieces?

...I do. (Yessss)

So today, I committed several curatorial and conservational sins by taking these pieces outside to take some pictures (for you) in the sunshine. I broke rules. It was thrilling (har har)! And afterwards they went back into their acid free boxes with their acid free tissue paper, carefully padded and rolled for safety. Anyways, I have so many pieces that I am going to break them down to space it out and create a series over the pieces from my family's collection. I hope you all enjoy them and if you have any input whatsoever please share, late 19th century is not my strong point.

Today we're starting with 2 children's dresses. I have no idea how old they are, (probably 1870s-80s & early 20th century??) Anyways, they're beautiful, machine & hand stitched and make me want to put my future babies in them....

Here's the first one, it's a blue check cotton (maybe linen mix?) child's gown with standard pleated bottoms and beautiful cut out lace work on the chest and arms.

An interior shot to see the more true blue color of the fabric

Ugh. So pretty. So So pretty.

Delicate lace collar

Hand button holes (more on them later)

Closed by 3 buttons in the back and that's all.

Hand stitching on sleeve

I just loved the sleeves and the mix of fabrics

This is the second child's gown. Much simpler. I don't know if the two gowns are related in some way or just the only 2 children's gowns they felt worth keeping (this one is much simpler than the blue). This white gown is much larger than the blue.

Dropped waist, pleated bottoms, button closure

Delicate sewing

full shot

sweet soft lace


lace

I'm in love with the little blue gown and it's pretty cut out work. I can't imagine how cute a baby would be in that little gown...I wish there were photographs...

Anyways, this is the first of many on the pieces in the family collection. I hope you enjoy and I'll post another soon. :) The next post is about Aunt May and her button holes....

The Battle of the Boning

2011-05-05T09:00:00.002-04:00

Allllllllllllll-righty

Since most of ya'll haven't handled baleen before, and I have (for whatever insane reason) almost every type of (suitable) boning options in my possession (how did that happen?), I thought I'd give some examples of how different baleen is and what is the closest substitutes (spoiler: reproduction baleen is not the right answer).

Boning...wow.

Left to Right we have: Spiral Steel, Spring Steel, Baleen, Faux Baleen, Reed, and a Cable tie

Here's the first thing about baleen that makes it different from all the other options here: You can adjust the width and the width varies naturally. Some of my baleen strips were almost a 1/4" thick while some where maybe 1/16". I also figured out sometime this afternoon that I could split the baleen width wise and double my baleen pieces while also making the really thick pieces thinner and less rigid.

You can't do that with the other options. You can double up, but that's not quite the same, because thick baleen is stiff. It has give and will mold into shapes thanks to heat, but it is really strong and stiff. So I used my longest and thickest pieces for the CB boning as it will hold the pressure of lacing amazingly well.

Baleen Strips are comin' fer yoo

Trying to get a shot of thickness

Some of my baleen

You can see how one is bent (from being boiled and shaped in a
pot) and the other is straight.

Baleen will mold from heat. It grows soft (thus boiling to cut the baleen) and the body heat along with some potential external heat will encourage the baleen to mold to your body, thus fitting you extremely well and becoming more comfortable. Other boning can do this too, of course...

The biggest difference about baleen is its flexibility compared to other boning materials. I took photos of me pushing on different boning materials to compare the difference...an idea I got from the Burnley and Trowbridge workshop & Mark Hutter.

Baleen: I was pushing pretty hard, it has some give but not tons

Spiral Steel: Alright, it was more for comedic relief anyways...

Monster Cable Tie: This was a HUGE cable tie, resisted surprisingly well,
but I didn't try the smaller ones, as I imagine they're too flimsy.

Faux Baleen: Really flimsy and when I used it to make Sapphire's
stays, I wanted to stomp on it an throw it away. However,
I am pleased with final product.

My 2+ year old reed: Nice and sturdy, but the draw back is wood breaks
I broke one bone the second time I wore my stays. However, it's cheap.
Wood splint, is supposed to be the best 'wood' option, overall, and it was
used during the 18th century. That's the only one I don't have.


Ol' Reliable (Spring Steel): If you've made a corset, you know what this stuff is like.

Survey says: Reed/Wood as your best alternative. It's inexpensive, it's strong, it's accurate, and it is easy to trim and shape. The key is to buy quality reed or wood splints. Burnley and Trowbridge have some nice stuff in from the UK right now and you can purchase from basket weaving companies (I've listed a few (or one?) in my shopping page).

If you don't want to use reed/wood, it honestly seems that there is no difference between cable ties and faux baleen. Though the picture may look like the cable tie was weaker than the baleen, I'd have to disagree. Again, though, I think the cable tie option is dependent on the thickness of the tie, and that it might be more expensive to buy the cable ties? I don't really know, I've never made stays with cable ties....someone chime in here! I know you're out there (Lauren...Lauren.........Lauren)

My biggest issue with the baleen? The splinters. They get caught in the linen weave and will cause the bone to get stuck/have splinters stick out/ tear/ something. Not all pieces do this, but some have. I imagine there will be some cases the first couple times I wear my stays where I feel something poking and itching and it will be baleen sticking out through my lining. Only time will tell though.

I've boned 8 out of 10 stay panels, and I have to say I am incredibly impressed and shocked by how strong and stiff the baleen is. There is give, but it these stays are going to be really strong. Hopefully this means they'll last a long time, but I imagine the first couple of times wear the stays I'm going to be walking funny and re-learning how to move in stays as the boning and the fit are much different than what I'm used to.

Again, if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask and I'll answer the best that I can!

(Side note: due to my lovely friends and their dirty sense of humor I can't help but giggle throughout this post. Just thought I'd share in case you felt like having a slightly immature giggle too.)

<3 <3

An afternoon working with Baleen

2011-05-03T14:00:00.001-04:00

This past weekend (i.e. part of Friday and all day Saturday), the Biblical rains stopped pouring from the heavens to give Noah a chance to send a dove out to find land...or a pizza.

While Noah was busy looking for land, I was busy owning my American-ness and earning myself a redneck (literally, first sunburn of the year and my neck hurts.) Since I am moving to Williamsburg, Virginia in 2 weeks (WEEEEEE!), I needed to take care of working the baleen before I left. I also have an ever growing list of projects I need to work on before I leave, and well, I really want to have my stays finished for when I start working. I have crap to do, and slicing the baleen was high on the list.

So since Saturday was the first sunny day since...um...March, I jumped on the chance to work outside. The upside, I got it done, and it was a beautiful day. The downside? All our wood was wet. It was a very smokey day.

I've gotten several photos of the process, etc, so I'm going to use those to explain to you how I worked the baleen and got it into 1/4" wide strips.

First things first. You need an outdoor fire pit.

Preferably without wet wood that produces tons of smoke.

This is a brilliant chicken feeder from Tractor Supply. It was the
perfect width and length to hold the baleen. You need to get the
water boiling.

Outdoor workstation with wood cutting board, rotary mat, rulers
box cutter, rotary cutter, oven mitts, tongs (for getting the baleen out of
the water) and old school solid iron irons.

An after shot with tools and some baleen strips in the shot.


You can see that before boiling the baleen I scoured it using a ruler and a box cutter in quarter in segments. They helped as guidelines but you need a ruler/straight edge anyways to help keep your cut straight. It's not easy.

See how perfect the chicken feeder holds the baleen?

Bubble Bubble Toil and Trouble, Fire Burn and Cauldron Bubble....

I used a rotary cutter (it worked really well), and a ruler to help guide
my cuts. You really only have enough time to cut one strip before having
to put the baleen back into the boiling water for another 10 minutes or so.

The thicker the baleen, the harder it was to cut...I was sore for 2 days.

Not to mentioned sun burned, but no cuts!

Here are some strips through the process

Cut Cut Cut...see the iron? It was handy to keep things from wiggling.

So, from the hours of 11 - 2pm I was outside working the baleen. And by the end of it, I had everything in 1/4" wide strips of varying length. Next on my list is to boil the tips and put a small hole in one end for two reasons. 1: Extant stays all had prick stitches at the top and bottom to help hold the boning in place. 2: Pulling boning through will be easier than pushing. So I was going to lace some thread through the hole and slide a bodkin through the channel to then pull the boning through. At least...that's my plan.

Here is my list of materials I used for working the baleen:

1. Baleen (purchased legally) of 30-35" length (it varies) (Edit 5/06: 3-4 pieces of baleen will be enough for a fully boned pair of stays)

2. Rotary Mat & Cutter

3. Bon fire & official keeper of the fire. This is a 2 person deal, one cuts the baleen, one stokes the fire.

4. Large chicken feeder from Tractor Supply Company (or copper boilers)

5. Box cutter & Ruler for scouring the baleen before boiling (though the marks grew faint during boiling, but you can still see them)

6. Oven mitts and tongs to handle the baleen around the boiling water and fire. You don't want to burn your beautiful hands, now do you?

7. Weights. I used the old irons, but you can use whatever. You have to move quickly and this helped just prevent accidents.

8. Scissors to trim the extra hair off the baleen.

After Thoughts: I actually really enjoyed working with the baleen, and the whole process. Once I got the handle of it, it was actually quite a smooth process and fairly easy. My rotary cutter dulled out by the end of it, but I can still use it for a while. I purchased 3 lengths of baleen and the 3rd was boiled long enough to be cut in half into 2 shorter pieces. I'm going to boil those in the kitchen and cut them up inside. My mother swears there's a smell, but I just think it's the stinky rotary mat. Maybe a faint smell, but nothing major in my opinion.

The baleen was really difficult to cut when it was at it's thickest (between 1/8 and 1/4" thick) and it is also uneven so you have to be careful when cutting, but lil ol' me still managed to cut through it. So I think about anyone can do it themselves. The sharper your tools the better. I don't think using a box cutter would be wise, as it might catch/break/pull.... a rotary cutter worked really nicely. Have extra blades on hand if you are going to work with a lot of baleen.

The key with baleen, in my opinion, is managing to move quickly and effectively. When you're rushed it's easy to get sloppy with your work...and that would just be a disaster. Some of my lengths are not that straight/slightly larger than 1/4", and a lot of that was because I was working quickly and not knowing what I was doing. You cannot rush this process. You will need a whole day to work the baleen.

I still have to trim the lengths and sand the baleen but that is just standard operating procedure...and I'll post about that at a later date. My next post will hopefully be on how different baleen is from other materials that we are using for stays now a days.

Hope you all enjoyed the post & if you have any questions, feel free to ask!

<3 <3

Dear Kate

2011-05-01T20:26:00.000-04:00

Dear Kate,

Well, first off, let me give you a big, loud, overly Mid-western, girly "OHMUHGAWD!!! YOU DID IT! CONGRATULATIONS!!!" on your wedding this Friday with Prince William. Monarchy, media, rumors aside, you two just looked lovely together, and it was endearing to see how attentive William was to you and how much you knocked his socks off when he saw you for the first time.

And I'm not gonna lie, I loved that a lip reader tried to decipher what was said between you too. Though it was a bit creepy.

At least it wasn't something dirty like, "I can't wait to get you home and ride you like a polo pony" or something like that. Cause that would have just been weird. Several million people would have had to sit there in awkwardness for about a good 10-15 minutes. I'm glad that didn't happen. Smart move William. Smart move.

But, let me get to my main point: your gown and your flowers. Cause, that's what I'm about, don't get me wrong, you and Will are darling, but seriously. Let's talk the pretty stuff.

1. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you for wearing full sleeves. I know you were required to wear sleeves (though apparently a lot of mainstream media didn't...morons.), but you have no idea what this has (hopefully) done for the wedding industry. I swear, wedding gown designers and seamstresses have forgotten how to design and attach sleeves anymore. Seems like all that they can do is strapless, halter, or spaghetti straps. Can we say, boring? I was over it ages ago (mostly cause my body type does not lead itself well to strapless). So thank you for doing that, you have proven that sleeves and a wedding gown go beautifully well together.

2. Are we telepathically connected? Cause...well...I really don't know what the hell I'm going to do whenever I get married. Everyone now is going to say I'm just trying to rip off your wedding. All of the flowers and trees being selected for their meaning and how it is appropriate to your and William's relationship? Ah-mazing. I love the language of flowers. The Sweet William alone was just a sickeningly sweet moment, but the fact you took so much care and thought into selecting flowers that are not only indigenous to the UK but have meaning (beyond Red Rose for Love...so over done) is so above and beyond what most people would even fathom. Was it me, or was that the Art Historian in you? Regardless, it was brilliant and made everything just that much more wonderful because of the careful thought and care you put into your wedding.

3. 10 points for taking a cue from your grandmother-in-law, no doubt, for using so much symbolism in your gown and flowers. I loved that QEII used to do that all the time with her gowns as well, the bumble bee gown was a personal favorite.

4. Don't listen to people who tell you your gown was 1. too simple (it's all in the details. I understand. White on white does not get picked up well by cameras, no matter how Hi-Def they are). 2. Not fashion forward enough (um...do they even know who you are? I mean, don't get me wrong, you always look lovely. But you're a "Classic and Sophisticated" and not "Fashionista". A royal wedding is not a time to make a fashion statement.) 3. Made you look older. Um. No. That's just not true. Plus, you're not 18 or 20. You're a 29 year old woman. A lot of women are on their second marriage and 2nd or 3rd kid by 29...at least where I come from. That ages you, not a wedding gown.

5. OHMYGAWD. The tailoring of your gown killed me. I died. It was such a smart move going with Sarah Burton. Alexander McQueen (Rest his soul) taught her well. Oh. The tailoring. I get giddy thinking about it and how she had the lace design match up on your bodice...and how well it fit...oh...giddy..giddy..

6. I think, for a future Queen, it was brilliant to have the flowers of England, Wales, Scotland, and N. Ireland to make up the lace of your gown and veil. Well played m'dear. Well. Played.

7. Did you geek out over the tiara? Or did you geek out over the tiara? Did you play a game of Pretty Pretty Princess with your sister and replace the game tiara with the Cartier Halo Tiara?

...Cause I totally would have.

7. Were you tempted to go Bridezilla on B&E? Or did it provide you some comedic relief after you got down the aisle?

Well, Kate, that's all I got for now. Congratulations again on gettin' hitched. You two were just way to damn cute together.

...But for the sake of history...please don't name your first daughter Mary. Why? Well...I'm just starting to get a bit freaked out that we have a Henry VIII situation on our hands. Your name is Catherine. Your husband's name is William ARTHUR, who is in line to become King and who has a younger, tall, red headed, brother named HENRY.

Just...yeah...don't name your daughter Mary..Ok? Please? I don't think my brain could handle it.

Hugs and Kisses!

Abby

Half way point

2011-04-20T09:09:00.000-04:00

Last night before the 'big storm' hit, I managed to finish hand-sewing the channels to the fifth panel of my stays.

I'm halfway there!

Huzzah!

My hands hurt.

Pictures to come later.

That is all.

<3<3

Ethics, Culture, and Controversy - Baleen.

2011-04-18T19:48:00.000-04:00

When I mentioned baleen in my last post, I knew there would be some concerns about the moral and ethical aspects of my decision. I started to respond in my comment section and I realized that writing this much in the comment section could be considered cruel and unusual punishment for people and their eyeballs. So, I’ve opted to write it (a listing of why I’ve opted to use baleen for my stays instead of other options) in the bigger forum of a full blog post. It’s long, lacking pictures, and controversial. So read ahead with that in mind, you’ve been warned….

1. Whaling in Alaska is tightly regulated by the government and only the indigenous people are allowed to hunt the whale (which they have done for thousands of years), the whale is a ‘subsistence hunt’ and not for sport. Villages are highly restricted on how many whales can be hunted per year. Also, with my knowledge of the native peoples of this continent (my step-father, who actively raised me from the age of 4, being of Northern Cheyenne descent), I understand the spiritual aspects of the animal hunt and the respect given to the animal by Native Americans. This hunting done to support a livelihood, a culture, and a society of a race of people that suffered genocidal conditions not so different from Auschwitz that was mentioned in comments. The whale has been used in total, including the baleen that I purchased. With that in mind, I am continuing the tradition. The sacrifice of the whale will not be wasted. The baleen will be used as a learning tool and as a part of the much loved and labored over garment. To me, this is better than it sitting on a fireplace of a maritime collector or in Sarah Palin's display box on her Fox News set.

Here is the blurb I pulled from Subsistence Resources website about the 1966 ruling on whaling and native people (From the Marine Mammal Protection Act that Anon mentioned in my comments): "Alaska Natives enjoy exclusive use exemptions of whales, walrus, seals, polar bear and sea otter under the mandates of the MMPA. Subsistence whale harvests became strictly regulated and clearly defines the communities in Alaska that can participate and the quotas allotted to the respective villages. All other marine mammal subsistence harvest for walrus, polar bears, seals, and sea otter is loosely regulated, there are no seasons and bag limits. The harvest must be non-wasteful and will become strictly regulated if those populations become depleted. It should be strongly noted that even after 30+ years of loose regulations the population of walrus, polar bear, and sea otter appear to be doing quite well and perhaps fully recovered."

http://www.kawerak.org/servicedivisions/nrd/sr/index.html

Comparing the whaling of modern indigenous people to what went on by Europeans and white Americans between the 17^th and early 20^th century is unfair. Concern that the whaling is going unregulated as before is one thing, but that has been proven otherwise as best as is possible. I can’t go on a whaling ship with the tribe, and I think comparing Native Alaskans’ ancient practices and culture to the white man’s wasteful and greedy hunting is insulting. One doesn’t blame the Sioux, Cheyenne, Blackfoot or Crow (and other Plains Indians) for the wasteful slaughter of buffalo, do they? I have very strong view points on Native American culture and how important it is to maintain and promote these societies. Whaling is a part of that tradition.

2. When I purchased the baleen, it came with clear notes on the captain of the whaling ship, where the whale was hunted, and for what village. I know, to the best of my knowledge, that poachers did not hunt this whale. I would not have purchased the baleen if there had not been documentation of the origin of the baleen.

3. I wear leather, eat meat, and I’ve even worked with fur. Though I questioned the use of the baleen, I wondered if it would be hypocritical of me to think one way, when I behave in another. I also know, that I don’t view this as a careless death. I’ve been raised to give thanks to the spirit of the animal that has given its life. Though that might not mean anything to other people, I at least know I’m grateful to the animal, acknowledge, and give thanks in the way I’ve been taught how. And when I’m standing in the sun working with the baleen there will be prayers said and thanks given.

4. There is no substitute to baleen. None. I’ve worked or have worn stays with wood, steel (spring and spiral), reed, and artificial baleen. There is nothing that compares to baleen. It is a material that humans have not been able to accurately reproduce. I will be able to give a better idea of this once I have worked the baleen into the 1/4” strips needed for my stays and not while it’s still in slab form.

5. This is not about pretty pretty dress up to me. My master’s dissertation was over stays and comfort. Baleen is a huge part of that. I hand sew all my clothes and construct them in the manner that was taught to me by the Milliners, Mantua Makers, and now Tailors at Colonial Williamsburg. This is about learning the trades, the history, and the methods used behind the clothes and culture I love so much. I handled baleen in the shop as an intern without any second thought, and I know the difference it makes. The more I know about how baleen works and why it was used will make me a better historian as well as with the construction of my garments. Like I said before, this is about the learning experience as well as the end result.

6. Living on my parents’ farm, with a well-established bonfire pit, plenty of tools and equipment needed to work the baleen has provided a perfect working environment. Once I move to my new residence, I probably wont have this opportunity for a very very long time.

I knew, with that original post, the subject of baleen would be controversial and understandably so. The use of baleen is not for everyone, but for me, this one time, I decided it was for me. Will I use baleen all the time? No. Definitely not. I have the resources to work with the baleen that I won’t anywhere else, I have already gone through all of this effort to construct the best pair of stays I can possibly make, and I feel that this is just an excellent time to learn and ‘go all out’.

I acknowledge and respect the differing opinions on this controversial matter. I ask that others with differing opinions will also respect mine. I believe I have given a clear explanation as to my decision on using baleen for my stays, and I hope that this answers any questions or concerns others might have.

<3 <3

Epic Stays Workshop Post - Ya Ready?

2011-04-16T11:19:00.000-04:00

Last Thursday I woke up at the butt-crack of dawn (5am) to catch an early morning flight. I did not stop moving until I arrived home this Tuesday at 4:30pm. Friday through Sunday was the (epic) stays workshop put on by Burnley and Trowbridge (with Colonial Williamsburg). And starting Wednesday I've been sewing boning channels in my stays (One panel a day).

The way the B&T workshops go, is that not only will you leave with a head-start on a project, but you are also educated on the history of the garment and taught how to create the garment with historical accurate techniques. So when you take a class with the mantua makers, you cut and drape your gown. With the tailors, you take your measure and pattern. You are privy to a lot of information and share a great deal of research that has been conducted by B&T, Tailors, and Milliners/Mantua makers over the course of 20+ years. Over the course of the workshops over the past few years there has been an issue of people lifting the information given to them at the workshops and sharing it to others like it is theirs. Which is sad, and as a result Burnley and Trowbridge requires all attendees to sign release forms stating that they wont share patterns or any intellectual information given to them at the workshops in any way, shape, or form. So what's to follow is mostly a roundup of my experience during the weekend and not anything academically useful.

Here it goes:

Stay-making, while an independent trade, also was a skill of the tailors. So, this means that Mark Hutter (Head tailor of CW in the historic trades dept) taught the class filled with 12 braless women, and not the female mantua-makers. As you can expect, for some people it can get fairly awkward talking about busts, bust to hip ratios, fluffy squishy bits, and body types all while standing in your shift braless in an air-conditioned building.

On a side note: I really hate going braless. I'm always jealous of the girls that can go braless....how do you do that? It hurts and is itchy. Plus gravity just makes things....weird.

Anyways, Friday was spent lecturing and measuring (braless) so that way on Saturday we could pattern the stays (it took up all morning and most of the afternoon) and Sunday we could fit the stays and have some more lecturing about finishing the stays and boning options.

Throughout Friday and Saturday, I was Mark's guinea pig. (This worked out wonderfully in my favor 2 sets of stays and one patterned by Mark himself.) Mark and I have known each other since 2007 when I was the ripe old age of 21. He knows I have no shame (Read this post about me and my pin pillow to get the idea) and that means he can get away with this for comedic effect:

Glad I could help.
(Photo courtesy of Burnley and Trowbridge)

Since he measured me, he also opted to pattern my stays, tricking himself into thinking it would be 'easier'.

Muah. ha. ha. ha.

2 hours later I had an official pair of Mark Hutter stays. I thought I got off easy. The hard part was done! Huzzah Huzzah! All I had to do was cut out my pattern and start basting everything together. That idea was short lived however...

Mark: Abby...

Me: Yes.

Mark: Pattern this second pair for yourself.

Me: Oh! Great!

(Then I freaked about making sure I paid close enough attention and whether or not I should have taken notes...I actually wont know how well I did until I cut out the second pair to see how they fit...)

Did I mention these second stays are not really that similar to the ones I'm making now? My first pair are very very 1770s (based off of an original pair in the CW collection). My second pair is more late 70s up through the 80s (also in the CW collection). Much more thrusting...not that my girls need the help or anything. But that's enough about the second pair of stays, I need to focus on the pair I'm actually making....

The 1770s stays will forever now be known as the 'Lavender Stays' for the lavender worsted wool from B&T I used. They will be 4 layers total (1 outer layer of worsted wool, 2 inner layers of course linen and the final lining). They will be fully boned and Mark draped a shoulder strap for me as well, cause straps are good for girls who have larger girls.

My goal is to get one panel done a day. So far, I'm on track. (Minus the panel I started today that I totally just screwed up. Ooops...what else is new..right?)

I'll post pictures of my stays as I progress, the hand sewn channels, and the (hopefully) super awesome boning experiment.

Ya ready for this?

......

I asked for baleen for my birthday.

Cause every girl wants chunks of baleen for her birthday right?

...right?

Hopefully in the next couple of weeks and it will arrive and then I will have the wonderful experiment of trying to get the large chunks of baleen sliced into 1/4" chunks for my stays. This will hopefully be a success, but nonetheless will be a great learning and blogging experience (with potentially hilarious pictures)! Ideally, I would like these stays to be done around the beginning of May. I think it is possible as long as I am disciplined in my sewing and I don't keep screwing crap up.

And now, here are some pictures that I took during fittings on Sunday:


Everyone standing around watching other fittings and waiting to be fit.

Special shout out to the Fashionable Frolick blogging sisters (shown above in the center)! They were there too! What you all might find interesting is that the three of us all have the same stay pattern, and through the difference in our body types, needs, and preferences how the patterns will change to suit us individually. I'm looking forward to seeing their finished product to compare mine to theirs. And maybe so will everyone else?

Angela B and the B&T mascot Sophie

Checking the fit of my stays.

When I was laced up, they had put the stays too low, and it was mildly uncomfortable
(and my boobs kept falling out of the stays...It was a bit awkward...)
until Mark lifted me over his head by my stays to get them in the right spot.
Then. They were perfect. And I smiled....see?

Before Mark adjusted them, the lacing was in a pyramid shape which
was wrong. Once they were in the right place, they were an even 1"-ish (above).
This lessons teaches us the importance of putting stays on in the right place.

Fitting Ashley, the skinniest girl at the workshop

Rebecca being fit. Something must have been funny. Probably was a
boob joke.

Round Up:

This was my second Burnley and Trowbridge workshop (I had to cancel last minute for the 1810 gown workshop last spring due to a family emergency). There isn't anything like them in the rest of the country, and I love them. The work that Angela, Jim and Mark/Janea/Sarah/Neal/Doris do is wonderful, and it is totally worth attending one. Though I'm dreading sewing the binding on these things (boning is now considered fun since I'm going to experiment with baleen), I am also extremely thankful to have a pair of stays that are patterned and fit to me the way stays are supposed to fit and (hopefully) wont make my left arm go numb.

Numb arms ain't fun.

<3 <3

Neener Neener Neeeeeeennnerrrr

2011-04-12T19:01:00.000-04:00

Before I do my massive post about the Burnley and Trowbridge Stays Workshop (photos are on their facebook page now) I have to get something something really massive off my chest.

....Ready?

...you sure?

Ok. Here it goes....

Neener Neener Neeener I have the Napoleon and Empire of Fashion (1795-1815) catalouge book and you (probably) doo nooottttt!!!

Neener Neener NEEEENNERRRRRRRRRRR.

It. Is. Awesome.

AWESOME.

Be jealous.

Angela from Burnley & Trowbridge got her copies in yesterday. Being present while the UPS guy dropped them off, I immediately picked one up, opened the plastic and went "Mine!" It is totally worth it. It is a beautiful book with a great concept.

From what I've understood and by how the book is laid out, this collection/exhibition has been based off of finding extant garments that are similar to the French fashion plates at the same time. So on almost every page you have a fabulous fashion plate and then on the next page is the correlating gown/suit/etc.

Loved.

It.

LOVED IT. It's ah-mazing. They're also trying to get the exhibition to tour in the US, since it is in Europe right now, and talks are apparently about Washington DC and Chicago and probably west coast city too.

Anyways. My point is it.

Buy. The. Freaking. Book.

Now.

Go.

You'll thank me.

(Lauren of Portland House I am especially talking to you my dear).

Give Away Winner!

2011-04-07T18:28:00.000-04:00

Ok, so I loved everyone's responses to if they were to travel back in time. Me, being, well, me, I spend a lot of time wondering what would happen if I ended up befriending a mad scientist who figured out how to travel back in time (usually results in me getting stuck and I only had enough to bring one thing or maybe a couple things, you know cause, last minute time travel trips happen all the time)

...I watch way to much Dr. Who.

Anyways, I loved everyone answers and I like how people were thinking long term vs short term (I'm usually like, I wont go back to the future I wont I wont I wont! ....mostly because I assume something will go wrong with the gap in the universe or our time machine, etc so on and so forth).

Usually I fight with myself about what I would bring it usually goes between a lifetime supply of antibiotics and/or a lot of gold/silver to buy my way into society/ letter of introduction.

I would definitely get a smallpox vaccine before I would even go though, so, just remember if you ever meet a mad scientist get your vaccinations up to date, especially for smallpox. Ok? Ok.

Now, for you ladies who said tampons (...and going slightly off subject)

Let me open up a new world to you:

The Diva Cup.

You're welcome.

Now for the good stuff. Zee Viinnnnerrrr:

I used Random.org for the random number generator thingy.

*drumroll*

Dum Dum Dum!

#18 Gentlewomanthief! Huzzah!

And now for a surprise...

Cause I'm currently at Burnley & Trowbridge and they have such pretty 2" wide silk satin ribbon

I want to give away some too.

Cause it's fun!

The winner of 1 yard of 2" silk satin ribbon is:

#5 Nuranar

HUZZAH!

HUZZAH!

HUZZAH!

...that was fun!

GWT and Nuranar if you can email me at abbyelyn at gmail to give me your postal address that'd be loverly. Also, Nuranar if you can pick a color between black, pink, dove gray, and lavender that would be swell, and I'll get your stuff in the mail to you on Monday! :D

Congrats to the winners!

<3 <3

My Quarter Life Crisis and Prepping for a Workshop

2011-04-06T11:42:00.000-04:00

Howdy.

(Before I write anymore did you enter my giveaway? Cause if you haven't, you're just silly. $25 gift certificate to Burnley and Trowbridge! WOO!)

Anyways, for an update. Yesterday was spent ironing pleating and sewing down a petticoat that was in this weird bastardization stage? I had it half done for a while, trying to do something with it, but it didn't work out and now it's actually a socially acceptable petticoat, minus the hem. I really need to finish that hem. It's just a plain cream petticoat, and I'm wearing it as an under petticoat for the stay making workshop I'm attending this weekend in Williamsburg.

I am so excited. I get a new pair of stays!

I don't really like sewing stays though.

But I will have new stays! Huzzah!

But I really get bored sewing stays.

But my left arm wont go numb anymore! Huzzah Huzzah!

Seriously though...boning stays is a pain in my bum.

But I'll have new stays!

Be prepared for a lot of whining and procrastination.

It'll be worth it in the end though. That's what I keep telling myself. After having that kind of conversation in my head when I think about the work that will go into making myself a new pair of stays.

Also, in non sewing news. I have a confession.

I am having a quarter life crisis. And it has manifested into owning a new pet.

Her name is Tilly, and she looks at me like I'm crazy. Probably because I am, slightly.

Dirty Mouth

Her official portrait

Staring me down

Showing off her wings

Tilly will probably become a regular feature on this blog, just because she's pretty and is little miss sassy-pants.

Tomorrow I leave for Williamsburg until Tuesday. I will be updating a little bit (giveaway winner, etc). And hopefully next week I'll have some awesome posts for you to check out and a recap of my short stay in Williamsburg.

With that in mind, I'm going to go and try and do something productive....

<3 <3

100 (now 101) Followers = A GIVEAWAY!

2011-04-04T12:05:00.000-04:00

This weekend, I hit the magic number.

100.

100 beautiful followers to this silly blog, and I just couldn't believe it.

(I'm having a Sally Field moment: You Like ME! YOU REALLY LIKE ME!)

....sorry about that.

Anyways...in order to celebrate I have decided to have a giveaway for you!

Huzzah free stuff!

I've always wanted to do a giveaway, but I never felt that there was a good occasion, until now!

So here are the details for you:

I am giving away one $25.00 (USD) Burnley and Trowbridge Gift Certificate. Anyone can enter, from any country. I'll get the certificate to you! Here's what it looks like:

Mmm...Shopping.

B&T have a wide array of products for you to buy from great fabrics to books to buckles and bows (can we say taffeta ribbon?). Just check out their site to see what they have in stock.

How do you Enter?

Leave a comment answering this question: If you were to go back in time what is the one item you would bring with you?

Contest closes on Thursday, April 7th at Noon Eastern Time. From there I'll randomly select a winner and send you your gift certificate. :)

Good Luck! <3 <3

Thanks Dodge!

2011-04-02T19:40:00.000-04:00

Has anyone else seen this commerical? Personally, I thought it was a hoot and a half! The hair style of the mom driving didn't look too bad either, not that you could see much of it...

Well, Golly, I won an award!

2011-04-01T07:00:00.090-04:00

Katy at The Fashion Historian has honored me with a blogger award! Specifically, The Stylish Blogger Award, and I'm just tickled pink. Thank you, Katy, you've made me feel very special. :) And congratulations on NYU! That's stellar!

With this award comes responsibility, I am supposed to thank the person that nominated me for the award (See Above. :) ), I am now required to tell you 7 stylish things about myself, and then nominate 7 other bloggers. Ok. Here we go:

1. The color red is my best friend. I wear red shoes, carry a red purse, and wear matte red lipstick. Why? Because (at least for my brunette, fair skin self) it adds class and sass (har har) to any outfit. Even if I'm not dressed 'up'. A small punch of red just adds that extra something to any outfit.

2. I hate jeans. I find them uncomfortable and unflattering. People who say otherwise, do not know the beauty of skirts dresses and leggings. I've 3 jeans (all same cut 2 same wash and 1 I don't remember the last time I wore them) since 2008. Jeans are the devil.

3. I used to be very opinionated about different periods of dress history (1830s gross! 1660s? Disgusting!) I'm not like that anymore, I've managed to find something beautiful about every fashion movement. Except from the 1970s to today. Cultural fail. We're such slobs.

4. My year of living in Glasgow, Scotland was the most liberating for me fashion wise. I never felt so free to wear whatever the hell I want.

5. I learned how to dress and shop from my mom. When I was little we would go shopping. It would be "my turn" then "her turn". She also told me "You wear the clothes. Don't let the clothes wear you."

6. I learned how to sew in 2 costume classes at IU and a summer internship at Colonial Williamsburg in the Millinery Shop. This resulted in a phobia of sewing machines for 4 years. I still have a hard time understanding modern sewing techniques and terminology.

7. One of my first days as an intern for Linda Baumgarten, she showed me a men's court suit. I cried, it was a religious experience.

Ok, that was difficult. Now I am supposed to nominate 7 other bloggers! Huzzah!

1. Lauren from Lady of Portland House. She is lovely and her work is beautiful. Lauren has succeeded in making her 1790s clothing, her clothing and not a 'costume'. I just think that's fabulous.

2. Lauren from American Duchess. Why? Because I have a huge amount of respect for how well she's not only established her brand, but has made a great niche for herself just from a blog started 2 years ago. She's very creative and is providing silk shoes for 18th century fanatics.

3. Sarah from Mode Historique. She's an art historian/costume/fashion historian. She's does great research and she does funny stuff like this:

lol

4. Mad Hattery. 2 Words: 1. Hats. 2. Royalty.

5. Leimomi at The Dreamstress. She does lovely research and great posts about a wide assortment of fashion history topics. Plus, she does a rate the dress that can spur a lively debate.

6. Silk Frocks She's fairly new, looks like she's only been blogging for 5 months, but I'm really enjoying her blog and I hope she continues to write!

7. Rowenna at Hyaline Prosaic, Fellow Hoosier, Blogger, and hater of the word 'dress' for the 18th century gowns. I love that...makes my heart smile.

Ok! Wee! Congratulations you lovely women! Now you're stuck trying to think of 7 stylish things about yourself! It's harder than it looks. :)

<3 <3

Random Thinks on a Thursday Afternoon

2011-03-31T13:06:00.000-04:00

Um. So.

Yesterday was interesting. Our human neighbor must like to pretend he's in the wild primitive camping while outside behind his barn of many colors and broken down school bus. If you don't get what I'm trying to hint at...well..be thankful...my mother is scarred for life. I told her we should send him a roll of toilet paper with a note that says "From the ponies".

Yeah, I bet you're scarred for life too.

Sorry bout that.

....

Today's my mother's birthday. We've been singing my 'birfday' song all morning.

The birfday song is not the typical birthday song. It's new and fresh and makes me laugh.

I'll sing if for you next time we see each other. It has a special dance that goes with it too.

Tomorrow, we're getting a new addition to our family. Actually, she's my addition. I'm excited...I've been prepping her food all morning....but she'll have enough food for a couple of months. Huzzah!

I haven't sewn crap.

I blame the weather.

Starz's Camelot starts tomorrow! YAY! I hope it's as addicting as Spartacus. I just watched my dad spend 5 minutes trying to figure out how to put Camelot on our DVR. Cause he's cute like that.

The dancing evil chicks in the Hop preview make me laugh. I actually want to see the movie. Is that sad?

I have 94 followers now, only 6 more before something wonderful happens! Do you know what it is? I bet you don't.

Finally, I bet you haven't heard of this:

AMERICAN DUCHESS'S SHOES ARE GOING ON PRE-SALE TOMORROW!

HURRY HURRY DON'T MISS OUT!

You'll feel like a silly goose if all your friends have sweet new silk shoes and you don't. You know it's true.


My birthday is April 23rd. Just. Sayin'.

Have You Hugged A Resource Today?

2011-03-28T12:57:00.000-04:00

(Preface: This post is totally inspired by Mode Historique's blog post from today.)

I talked a briefly about copyright issues in my talk at A Reconstructed Visitable Past: Recreated Period Attire at Heritage Sites. Only briefly because, well, to be frank, I could talk about it for hours...if not days....and if you're trying to talk about it with museum folk who are highly protective of their collections and the unclear copyright laws...it just is a bajillion times worse.

So my brief talk was basically: Yes. There is copyright infringement. Yes. It is getting better. Yes. We use images from your website. BUT if we're good and responsible bloggers, we cite where the image came from and even link back to the original source. What does this mean? Well, Museums, this means you're getting tons of traffic and tonsssss of free marketing from blogs. It's true. I have the statistics.

48% of you visit a new website every time a blogger writes about it. (Another 48% were 'Sometimes)
86% have discovered new museums through blogs. (The nevers is a funny story I'll write about later).
94% are influenced/have used blogs to decide whether or not to make a purchase.
38% of you have had a case of the impulse buys after reading a blog.

What does this mean? It means we have influence, we have a role.

With this influence comes responsibility. There are popular blogs and there are not so popular blogs on the internet. The issue of copyright is starting to come to a head, I've addressed it, American Duchess has written about it, and Mode Historique just did a great post that refers to copyright. MH's post this morning got me thinking about a way to promote proper citation of sources in order to encourage bloggers to cite their images, their quotes, and their research. Not only would this be good practice in general, but it also will let any museums who might be checking out the blogs to see what we're doing, saying, using, referencing, etc, that we're legit.

...We are fairly legit...aren't we?

Too legit to quit?

...sorry.

In a fit of mildly pathetic creativity (and a little lesson in Photoshop Elements) I created a little badge/picture thingy for us (if you wanna) to put on your blogs to promote resource citation.

...is that like...super nerdy of me?

Anyways, here it is in all its silly glory:

Ok. Ok. I know it's a bit cheesy. I didn't want to be preachy, and I wanted it to be cute and a little fun. My photoshop isn't that brillz, I'm not a graphic designer at all. I just piddled until I thought it was acceptable.

If you can design a better one, share it! Or take this one and add it to the side of your blog (if you wanna).

And finally, if you think this is a dumb idea, have a better idea, etc feel free to comment and tell me. I just thought this might be a relatively fun/nice/funny way of promoting citing our resources for our blog. It benefits everyone. Can you feel the citation love? Ffffffeeeeeeeeeeeelllll iiiiiitttttt.

(Sorry no sewing posts, I haven't done anything with my Mrs. C jacket since my last post. I was too busy being pissy about The Three Musketeers.)

<3 <3

An Update on the Three Musketeers Movie

2011-03-26T23:53:00.001-04:00

....I was...so..excited.

I take that back.

I mean, I will go see the movie, but I wont be going for the same reasons.

Since when did a mid-17th century lady become part of The Matrix?

And since when did steampunk become historically accurate for every time period?

Seriously?

No..I'm serious.

Did I miss the memo?

And what the hell was that flying ninja crap with Mila wearing some weird ass stay/corset bastard child and a wrap of taffeta?

seriously?

No. What was up with the ninja?

Seriously?

And the costumes made it look so promising.

Oh. Did I mention they filmed it in 3D?
Yeah.

Orlando better be naked to justify that ridiculous notion that a live action bastardization steampunk/ninja/baroque/5th Element film that is being called The Three Musketeers.

...I'm a bit disappointed. Can you tell?

Am I over-reacting? I'm mostly just disappointed because the cast is pretty stellar, and the stills from shooting looked quite good from what I could see..

Let's just hope the film is better than the preview.

This is why Art Historians are awesome.

2011-03-25T18:46:00.000-04:00

Sarah from Mode Historique just released a great collection she dug up (with their lovely citations, be still my beating heart) of images focusing on women's caps from the 18th century. I just think it's far too brilliant to not share with you!

Caps Caps Caps!

Enjoy!

<3

Trimming and fixing my red jacket

2011-03-25T13:31:00.000-04:00

I swear, I own fabric that is not red.

I swear.

However, that fabric is not made up into anything yet...it's still...um...well...fabric.

Anyways, I have had a really cute and well fitting red quarter back jacket that B draped for me years ago. I used to for the fashion show I did while in Glasgow and I was so rushed I never had a chance to trim it and I was never that happy with the skirt of the jacket. Now, I have the motivation to fix it (I screwed up the sleeves as well) and re do the skirt and also add trim.

Here's what it looked like before:

Yes, the picture was taken in a bathroom...

Why in a bathroom? I have no idea.

And now here's the in process/destruction photos:

Kind of sad looking, isn't it?

Unsatisfactory.

Kitty hair is a natural fabric softener...or so Gus tells me

The trim cut out.

....Be honest...Does it look like Mrs. Claus to you?

Seriously?

Your imput is most welcome before I permanently attach the trim. I'm still trying to decide how I want to do the skirt of the jacket too, so that's just removed right now anyways.

Other than that...I gave the blog a face life (in case you haven't noticed), hope you all like it better. I thought the other one was dull, this is much more fun!

<3 <3

How to do a Weird Running Whip Stitch Thingy.

2011-03-23T20:31:00.001-04:00

So, with my 'innards' post from yesterday, a commenter named Natalie (P.S. Natalie, I'm from the 'ville!), asked me to better explain the funky stitch that B did on the back pieces of my gown.

Of course, I'm more than happy to oblige.

First, let's do a quick run down of lining in 18th century gowns. Normally, you cut the lining and the outer fabric from the same shape, fold in 1/8-1/2 inch seam allowance, baste, and then slip stitch the lining to the outer fabric, thus making the lining and outer fabric one piece. Ok? Clear? Clear. Fabulous.

The purpose of this "Weird Running Whip Stitch Thingy" stitch is to skip that basting and slip stitching and just do everything in one stitch, thus making the process, over all, much quicker. (Baste x 4) + ( Slip stitching x 2) + Connecting stitch = 7 different stitches to complete (?...I date an engineer...he does my math usually, so if this is wrong, please correct me). When, with this slip stitch, if you're good...or lazy (depending on how you view your lack of basting, I'm more lazy) you only have to do one stitch. Brilliant...no?

B & I found this stitch on 3 (or more?) gowns in the Liverpool costume collection in the UK. All were quarter back gowns, and all had this funky stitch. Like B said, you run the risk of losing the entire seam if it breaks, but, at the same time, these 3 gowns have lasted quite nicely with this funky stitch. So, when constructing my gown, she opted to give it a try. It works a treat. Ok, here we go with the photos:

Step one: cut out the 2 pieces to be stitched together and the lining. Fold in 1/4 -1/2 inch (do 1/2 if you are going to add spiral boning). Place the folded lining ontop of the outer.

The light green is the outer fabric and the muslin is the lining

Seam allowance

The two pieces facing each other edge to edge

Step 2: Pin outside to outside, so that when laying the pieces on top of eachother, all you see is the lining.

Pinned together

Step 3: After getting the end started (however you like to do that) you should bring the needle out through the lining of one side.

You can already see some of my stitches I'd done

Step 4: With barely any travel, stick the needle through the 2 outer layers and through the lining (just the top, don't make it deep) on the opposite side of where you started.

See how it is NOT going through the lining?

Now you can see it!

But it did go through the lining on the other side.

See what the stitch looks like? ...kinda?

Step 5: Repeat x however long it takes you to finish the seam.

Repeating..

Repeating...

Step 6: Once finished, as always iron the silly thing and move on to the next seam. The other beauty of this weird seam/stitch is that there is barely and ridge in the seam, it lays quite flat and when ironed it's almost impossible to see the stitches, unless you use bright thread like I did to provide better visuals for ya'll.

The finished seam

From the outside, no stitches visible!

Stitches shot

There! That's it! I hope that helped clear up any confusion there might have been with the oddly described stitch. It worked a treat when I was sewing up this example for you all, and I'm really impressed by how strong the stitch seams (Note: when I wrote this, I meant to write seems...ha) to be...even with my less than par sewing.

<3 <3

The innards of a Zone Gown

2011-03-22T21:22:00.000-04:00

So, in order to maintain my super blogging streak (because I know, better than others, that the best bloggers are bloggers that blog everyday. I'm trying..Lord am I trying...just too busy today to do anything but this.)

With that in mind, I also know you all like innards of gowns. Real innards, like what really went on in an 18th century gown. Well, I do know what went on, in some gowns (every gown is different...I really want to make a Margaret Cho reference, but I'm stopping myself...if you know the joke please say it aloud or in your head and have a laugh). But for the most part, there are some standards to expect in a 18th century gown....and these things, my friends, make your sewing life easier. I swear.

1st: Raw edges. For various reasons (extra volume, quick breakdown process of the gown to remake into a new...off the top of my head) women's clothing had a lot of raw edges inside their clothing. For the most part, where the sleeves and shoulders meet (quicker breakdown and also how garments were constructed would make it a bit tricky to finish that seam as far as I can fathom...I could be wrong, it could be easy enough, but I'm not going to bother) and where the skirt attaches (quicker breakdown and the extra fabric left, when folded down, helps kick out the skirt for extra volume. Plus, there's a lot of fabric there, and if you cut it off it would be useless, so it's also not wasting fabric.

The guts in all the raw edged glory

2nd: The sleeves are not what you think they are. You top stitch the top section that is attached to the shoulder strap. On the inside, there are 2 rows of back stitching that account for the under bits. Why? I don't actually know. My guess is appearance and mobility. Don't quote me.

Sorry it's not that clear, my bad.


Topped stitching. I hate puffy sleeves, and so I saw a gown in the Liverpool Collection that had this type of topstitching. I'm a fan.

3rd: Hard to see, but brilliant stitching connecting the quarter back gown. When B&I went to the Liverpool collection we saw many quarter back gowns with this unique whip-type stitch connecting the 4 pieces. It's been written about here. (Also, B wrote about another red silk gown of hers before she went off and did her own blog. Read that one here.) B was the one that did the sewing, not me, for the quarter back of the gown. We were sewing fools that week in England...on the train...in London...in Liverpool's Borders (not kidding).

These were the biggest stitches I could find (holy cow B!) and also you can see the white stitches that hold in the spiral boning

Upside down shot of side & side back

4th: Pretty quarter backs. The name explains it best. 4 pieces make up the back. Further into the 1780s and early 90s the points became very sharp, which made for a gorgeous back. B & I didn't end up doing that extreme of a point, but she still draped a beautiful back with a nice point. I'm a bit of a fan of quarter back. I pleated the skirts and then slipped stitched them to the bodice. This is so the fabric lays better than if you were to back stitch them, or any other method. Also, the front bodice is attached to the back with the silk being topped stitched and the lining being slipped stitched.

Wide shot of back


A clear shot of the point, 4 back pieces, and the topped stitching. Also note where the shoulder straps are.

Top stitched bodice to back

Slip stitched skirt to bodice

Shoulder strap. Topped stitched. With some hair powder.

5th: All a zone is, is a normal center-front pinned, with the arch cut out into a shape that is flattering to your figure. Make sure you get the angle near the skirt right so you'll be happy with the shape. There's no right or wrong way to get this shape. Just make sure it's flattering to you. To attach, top stitch (surprised?) neatly...or not, depending on if you cover it up in trim.

Wrinkley front

Best shop I could get of the 2 pieces.

Anyways, I hope this was...mildly interesting... at least there's pictures...

right?

Right?

Tomorrow, I'm going to be a good girl and sew...

maybe.

Recovery

2011-03-21T20:24:00.000-04:00

So I'm trying to recover from the insanity that was last week. Still trying to process it all, think about what to do next, and making sure I maintain my new lovely connections. I'm going to be a good blogger and give you all some information on my talk here in the coming weeks, as well as continuing the history of sexuality talk (now that I'm back at home with access to my lovely books).

Also, I have the Burnley & Trowbridge stays workshop coming up April 7-9th. Which is a very good thing, as my left arm was going numb when I wore my stays and gown 2 Fridays ago. That's not good...which also means I need to fix my sleeves.

I also need to trim my jacket.

And finish a shift.

And maybe make a petticoat or 2.

I also probably need a short jacket or bedgown.

Hell. I have a lot of stuff to do.

But, it's almost 8pm now. So, I'm not going to be doing any of that today.

Maybe tomorrow...

So I talked about you.

2011-03-20T12:51:00.000-04:00

And you.

And you.

In front of a bunch of curators and costumers and other very important people in the museum, reenacting, and interpreting world. I thought my chest was going to explode, but apparently I did alright. Though I think there were some typos in my powerpoint that I didn't realize.

(Susan, did I spell it Halloway or Holloway, Good Gracious I am so sorry if I missed spelled it.)

I was really worried that my talk about us and how the museums could, ultimately, learn from us, would annoy curators and museum people. However, it did seem to go over quite well. So much so, that by the end of Friday I felt like the Aracuan:

I met so many amazing people at the Symposium (which happened after the major conference on Thursday and Friday), I am still in shock over the whole ordeal. Maybe gobsmacked is a better word to use (though similar meaning...). I'm still trying to process it all, and remember the talks to recall to you. Because so so many of them were fascinating and wonderful.

The set up was different than the Accessories conference, each speaker only had 25 minutes, and we went in rapid succession with only 15 minute breaks every 1.5 hours or so. So this meant that there were a wide wide variety of talks, which helped keep you really interested.

I actually feel bad for the people who only attended the accessories conference and skipped the symposium, there were so many great speakers there. (Jenny Tiramani, Jane Malcolm-Davies, Richard Pickering (Plimouth Plantation), Neal Hurst, Pravina Shukla, Heather Meiklejohn, and others.) Because obviously, these people are fabulous and do amazing work. The symposium was wonderful and incredibly inspiring, it along with the conference, really made me happy to work in this field.

So, yes, that's an unclear summary of how my feelings are at the moment after my first time ever as an official presenter at a symposium.

At least there was the funny video right?

It now reminds me of Christmas. You silly Swedes.

<3 <3

Hold on to your skirts, book lovers.

2011-03-19T08:00:00.000-04:00

I have news.

Seriously.

Amazing news.

Ready?

Do you know who Jenny Tiramani is?? You know, the famous costume designer who worked at the Globe in London for several years? Who designed Elizabethan clothes for the stage as accurately as possible? Also conducted extensive research on the subject? Who is brilliant? (I may or may not have teared up from the shock of meeting her, let's just put it that way.)

She's coming out with a book of women's dress patterns.

From the V&A.

It's being released in April & I got to flip through it at the symposium.

IT. IS. AH-MAZING.

AH-MAZING.

I die.

The book is stuffed to the brims with images and detailed information on women's dress of the 17th century, and as you can see, it says 'Book One'. So, yes, that means there will be more books of patterns from the V&A being released over the next several years. We'll have to be patient, but they will be here! I am so excited!!

Yes, that's an X-Ray of a gown. Yes, there are more of those photos inside.

Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns Book <--Click here to pre-order on Amazon.

<3 <3

CW in Pictures

2011-03-16T21:12:00.001-04:00

Finished Hair & Weird Face (Photo: J.Rockhold)

Grr Baby. (Photo: J.Rockhold)


From Friday's Dinner Concert, My Bum (Photo: J.Rockhold)

Sarah playing with her weave

Washing my hair in a little sink

I whip my hair back and forth

A couple hours later, it's rolled around straws

Straws poking out of my hat

Alley way that smells of boxwoods

Card love

Close up of the straws as curlers

My hair was not a wig, except for the back extension

Nibbles and Drinks post dinner/concert

She had great hair.

Men.

Random candid

Millinery & Jewelry Store

For Brooke

You should know the story that made my mom start laughing.

I was trying to not laugh at myself.

I love this apron. I am so happy it was in the exhibit.

Amazing 1820s.


Melinda

Colonial Williamsburg: Accessories Head to Toe, or the Costume History Blogger Convention Part III

2011-03-15T21:05:00.000-04:00

Today, I will not be doing a grand summary of the crap load of information that was hurled at me today. My brain hurts and I still need to work on my presentation.

But here are some few points:

Dr. Ann Bissonnette's paper titled "Off with Their Wigs! Traditions and Revolutions in Hairstyles, 1748–1804" was BRILLIANT!!!!! Very interesting information about how wigs and hairstyles of men (first) and women (later) were heavily influenced by Greco Roman hairstyles (specifically Flavian) even before the dress. Architecture and hair...go figure. Also, interesting discussion about the French being influenced by their colonies in the south and resulting Afro influenced styles (hedgehogs...frizzy hair...jewelry...get it?) It was fascinating. Very Very Good.

Robin Kipps (Apothecary at Colonial Williamsburg) also did a great talk about health and fashion, including some costume reconstructions by the millinery, including an 18th century straight jacket.

Susan North presented again about clean linens vs flannel and health in the early 19th century.

Cynthia Cooper did a great presentation about shawls, scarves, and sashes from late 18th to late 19th century. It was really interesting and mostly focused on Kashmiri shawls, Chinese Crepe Shawls and Roman Shashes. Loved. It.

Finally, Janea Whitacre and everyone from the Millinery and other helpers (sadly I didn't realize they were doing something like this and didn't volunteer my body for dressing up...sadness.) did a fashion show/paper about the history of Millinery from mid 18th century to about 1840 (right before Millinery got screwed over by the sewing machine). It was clothing heaven as there were great 19th century pieces and hats hats everywhere. (Sorry for the short info Beth, it was very dense and I was very distracted by taking pictures, please forgive me...hope your flight went well!)

Here are some pictures:

Janea giving her presentation with a great hat.

A Mantua of early 18th century/late 17th century

Cutest baby ever in a pudding cap

Singing a song about Calashes, the newest style.

Adding jewelry to the full dress.

I want this outfit. 1805-10 ish.

1840s


I thought you'd all like this....

That's it for now. I have more pictures and things to discuss, but I'm just really pooped. Tomorrow is fairly quiet. I have to be at the museum at 9 to upload my final powerpoint and then at 11 I have a tour of the Textile Conservation Studio, and then the afternoon off. This will be spent working on my presentation.

But one thing:

I just have to say, I have met some of the kindest and interesting people over the past two days. A lot of them, are my age. I hope this means, that costume history will continue to grow and gain respect withing the art history and history communities. The research being done and the conversations being had are riveting and wonderful.

So, anyways, I just want to take a minute to say hi to all you wonderful people!

Ready?

Howdy! :)

<3 <3

*Costumes shown were constructed by the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop of Colonial Williamsburg.

Colonial Williamsburg: Accessories Head to Toe, or the Costume History Blogger Convention: Part II

2011-03-14T20:48:00.000-04:00

So today is the second official day of the CSA Conference here at CW, but I consider it also a blogger convention.

Which is very cool.

Like....really cool.

NO! Seriously, cool.

Wow.

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of meeting Susan Halloway Scott of Two Nerdy History Girls. She was ah-mazing, and lovely to talk to and allowed me to pick her brain and we had an amazing chat about blogging and all the goings on with that. Which was wonderful! I also picked her brain about being a published author, which I was just curious about in general, cause it's not everyday you meet one.

Also with yesterday was Susan North's first lecture who is currently on a leave of absence from the V&A (and their collections are CLOSED if you are wanting to get any research, you gotta wait a couple years...so sorry) and is doing her PhD in Health and Underwear (mostly 19th century, but made me think of my MLitt dissertation...which was cool). Her talk was very academically oriented, which I enjoyed...cause I'm a nerd (Susan Scott did a summary. Click Here.)

Today, however, was ah-maz-ing. First lecture was by Linda Baumgarten, Curator of Costume and Textiles at Colonial Williamsburg, where she gave a run down over the pieces that are currently being exhibited in the museum. She had some very interesting tid bits with provenances and further information with textiles etc. Here are some bullets:

-Bright white (as bright as possible for 18th century, not optic white like we're used to) light weight accessories were considered symbols of gentility (higher class), due to the difficulties of keeping clean and pretty. You could not throw these pieces in with white sheets, towels, shifts, etc. These were the 'dry clean only'. I don't know why this was an a-ha moment for me. It was also a 'duh' moment.

- Early 18th century (late 17th too) aprons seemed to have been pleated down onto a linen tie (string) or gathered and stitched down, instead of doing the gathering from a casing around a string. Does that make sense?

- Also, this has bugged me for a while, but now I have curatorial back up, but please, When referring to 18th century neckerchiefs, neck-handkerchiefs, etc, do not call it a fichu. This terminology was used during the 19th century, not the 18th century.

....ok. I feel better now.

Then we had a great lecture by Phil Dunning, material culture researcher of Parks Canada, Ottawa, Ontario entitled: Yeomen to Merchant: Clothing and Accessories from a 1690 New England Shipwreck. He was also great. I really enjoyed the whole archeology aspect of the discussion as well as the correlation between the collection in Kalmar Sweden of a very similar ship wreck around the same time period. I took some pictures of the pieces he had from the wreck at the lecture (Sorry in advance for the quality they were taken from my phone)


28 shoes were found in the wreck site and 20 were whole in tact

Assorted fabrics scraps. Silk and Wool survived the best overall.

According to Phil, it seems that social rank was maintained on the ship despite being a Massachusetts Militia. So there were some long scraps of silk taffeta ribbon (upper left) that Phil suspects were knots of various locations (cause the mid 17th century man lurved him some knots)

Wool Scraps

The button holes survived, but the garment did not. Amazing or what?

Example of a wrapped fabric button.

Shirt Closure buckle, 'luckenbooth' (Scottish terms) Crowned hearts in others. Very common and very popular.

These, though silver these buckles (and others) were cheaply reproduced, very quickly. So they were not of the best quality, but they super popular.

Insignia ring of a fleur de lys.

Now, I'm not 100% sure if I have this correct because Mark Hutter did a talk on men's accessories and they talked about these rings and how they were actually attached to watch chains first, and then eventually changed designs to be less 'ring' like.

So....Guess who the next talk is?

Mark Hutter and Erik Goldstein (Master Tailor and Curator of mechanical arts and numismatics (i.e. boy toys) at CW)

- 18th century terminology: Toys = Accessories.

- Virtually no hatting was done in North America, the raw materials were all exported to England for hatting.

- Cockaids were worn as military or political statements, normal, daily, civilian usage was unseen.

- Large discussion of button manufacturing and design. Too much for me to mention, but I've decided that F needs to give up airplanes and begin researching the machines used to mass produce products such as watch innards and buttons.

Beautiful watch innards.

Beautiful watch face. And Mark Hutter's face. He was in costume.

Title Slide and Mark (in costume) and Erik (playing Vanna White)

Finally we had D. Al Saguto and a great talk about shoe production from Medieval to mid 19th century.

- Methods were circular. Roman construction methods were rediscovered and considered new during the 19th century. (nailing sole to upper.)

-Medieval sewed the top to sole. Inside out, and then flipped them the right way.

- mid 16th century discovered the best so far method of hand sewing shoes where the upper would maintain integrity if the sole was removed. Good for mending.

- Poland seem to be a bit of a trend maker in shoes.

-Political associations to shoe ties vs. buckles during the late 18th century and early-mid 19th.

Repro (Saguot) 8th Century shoe

Repro (Saguto) Roman Shoe

Medieval Repro (Saguto)

16th century shoe repro (Saugto) flipped inside out

17th Century Repro (Saguto) shoe, cut out work too.

Take a wild guess. Repro (Saguto)

Innards example (Saguto)

Repro shoe showing pin/nail example. (Saguto)

So, obviously today was great. I'm in heaven. And I'm meeting tons of wonderful people, who like to sit around a bottle of wine and chat costume history and unis post conference day. Fab-u-lous.

Now, I need to work on my presentation. Eek.

<3 <3

*Note: All images were taken by me of the presentations. All of the information I posted is related to the speakers in the 'section' I wrote about. None of this is my research. It is the speakers, and is their intellectual property. If you have any questions I will point you in the right direction. The shoe repros were done at Colonial Williamsburg by Saguto and the Journeymen and Apprentices of the Shoemaker shop (not Cobbler, btw). Collection pieces belong to the Parks Canada/Elizabeth & Mary Shipwreck research center place thing (Phil Dunning) and Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. IF I find anyone is stealing this information from this blog and pretending it is your own, I will hunt you down and beat you with a reed.

Colonial Williamsburg Part 1

2011-03-13T15:16:00.001-04:00

I just spent an hour taking pictures of the accessories exhibit, but I snapped a few blurry shots for ya'll.
And I am geeking out over my badge. I feel so accomplished. Har Har Har. Tonight is Susan North as a keynote. Woo!

Return of the 'Hog

2011-03-12T16:37:00.000-05:00

Last night I went to an event filled with:

1. Men and Women in 18th Century Costumes (Including Angela from Burnley & Trowbridge & Kendra from Demode Couture)
2. Dinner at King's Arms Tavern at Colonial Williamsburg in candlelight
3. 18th Century chamber music in candlelight with reproduction instruments.
4. The return of my hedgehog..this time achieved by curling my hair around drinking straws.

Here's a photographic play-by-play from my over the top smart phone (including vintage camera app)

Hair set with standard drinking straws for a nice tight curl.


After the removal of the straws, the curls did not move.


20 minutes of combing out later....

The finished product.

Overall, I'm happy with it. The difference with making your hedgehog this way vs. pin curls is you do not have to tease your hair. This is the process of combing out your tight curls with a comb & pik. The only products I used this time were Bumble & Bumble style cream, some hair wax when I was shaking out my curls, Bumble & Bumble spray hair powder, and TIGI Bed Head Hairspray.

Oh and I had a clip in extension that I curled and set the night before. More about that later...

At Dinner

After the concert

<3 <3

Random Thinks on a Tuesday Afternoon

2011-03-08T17:46:00.000-05:00

I'm really excited to get dressed up on Friday for the big dinner/event thing in Williamsburg. However, I don't quite know what will happen with my hair. I hope my plan of curling with straws will result in awesome frizz.

Or I'll look like a bastard child from the 1980s with a bad perm.

I'm also excited it will be warm.

With that, I'm very much looking forward to interpretative dance performance of Dance Macabre that will probably happen Friday night as well. (insert evil laugh)

I get to meet Susan Scott on Sunday (Two Nerdy History Girls). My mom is excited to meet someone with the same name as her. Hopefully I'll remember to take a picture.

Is it me, or is the conference also acting as a blogging meet-up?

I really need to work on my paper. It's like college all over again.

Fredrik suggested I make a slide that says "HIRE ABBY" with a picture of my face to flash for a microsecond every 5 minutes or so during my presentation....do you think that's illegal still?

I've finally got myself up-to-date on technology with my way over the top Android phone. Since I refuse to have a twitter, and blogger has an app, I'm hoping that maybe I'll be responsible and do quick wee blog posts as a play by play on here throughout the conference...and on my facebook...if you're my friend.

...and also my stalking of Susan North and Jane Malcolm-Davies. Cause, let's be honest, they're like costume historian celebrities.

I've developed a bad habit of speaking in really weird terms...kind of like the movie Juno. I hope people find it as funny as I do.

My new phone has Dolby Surround sound. I'm really bummed it doesn't make the WOOOOOMMMMM sound when I turn it on like it does in the movie theaters.

Because I find Dolby Surround on a phone stupid and hilarious and over the top.

I really hope Susan North & Jane Malcolm-Davies don't read this post.

Time to go make business cards to get my networking on while at the conference.

P.S. It's Fat Tuesday. Go eat a Semla. They're far superior to King Crap Cake and any other Fat Tuesday Pastry.

Do. It.

<3 <3

Draping a Robe a la Polonaise

2011-02-23T07:57:00.000-05:00


Back view of Sapphire's Robe a la Polonaise with some piecing

This weekend, Sapphire came down to Linköping to do the rest of the draping for her Robe a la Polonaise. A few weeks ago, F & I went to Stockholm to visit and I did some of the first draping there. I did the bodice and also the center back pieces. We ran out of time, so I had to prolong the front/side draping. This was ok, because you don't need that to make a fitted mock up. However, I had to fiddle with the back pattern sans human body reference so I ended up making it too narrow (way too narrow) in the shoulders. This is a total easy fix, and as you can see I already created a patch and the gown is totally laying properly.

4 hours together we managed to do a fitting (the bodice was perfect I was so excited...did you know this is my first time draping on someone?) and drape the shoulder straps, the front/side, and the sleeves. Though when draping and cutting the sleeves, I cut them out without seam allowance so they're super tight, and you can see my oversized shift bulging out in the picture above. However, it worked out just fine in the shoulder without seam allowance, so I am very please with that.

Front view with a too narrow petticoat

Draping the side/front was probably the most interesting aspect. I have a cutting layout courtesy of Mantua Maker in Cairo and some in action images from Burnley and Trowbridge's Robe a la Polonaise workshop. Other than that, I was on my own. I have no idea how MMinCairo does her draping, so I cannot say my method is the exact same as hers. I would also state that her method probably has a bit more methodical steps and careful planning.

I am not that kind of person. If I do it that way, I usually make a mistake in my numbering. There's a reason I date an engineer, he does the math.

So I knew a few things going into draping this part of the gown.

1. Sapphire wants to look like an atomic cupcake. This means you need lots of volume in the skirts. The back panels were NOT wide enough in the skirt section. This means I need more fabric in the sides.

2. I'm doing 2 pleats in the side to get the shape I want. I know in Norah Waugh's book there is also a method of cutting the pattern carefully, but let's be frank, that's way too much like work and the pleating method is much easier. I find the pleating method to be a good way to work in extra fabric for volume, and also accurate with this kind of front. You have more control over the way it drapes, the angle, and the fabric is sturdier than having a sliver of fabric dangling around to be sewn in.

3. Pleating is easier than cutting small pieces.

So I literally took a length of fabric, did a guesstimation of how wide I wanted it to be, cut out a corner so you had some skirt panels and then the bodice section. I then just pinned down the end to the side seam focusing on making a pretty curve. Then I piddled with the pleats until I got the fabric hanging the way I wanted to, the pleats in a pretty shape and as smooth as possible with pins, and Sapphire was happy. I then cut out the extra fabric in the arms eye and neckline. Done. It took probably around 20 minutes for the initial drape and then an extra 30 or so with piddling with the pleats, arm's eye, etc. The result is the picture at the top of the post. I'm really quite pleased with it.

Close up

My challenges with the back: fixing the piecing and elongating the CB seam just an inch or 2.

Shoulder straps & Sleeves: Tweaking the shoulder straps mostly and getting everything nicely organized and in the proper shape and length. I also need to remember to cut out seam allowance with the sleeves. har har.

Everything else I'm just dandy with. I might shorten the front just a tad, but I'm a little worried to ruin the front's fit...cause I'm that happy with how smooth it is right now.

Also, I need to finish her stays. I have the binding on, but now am putting in the lining, so obviously, I can do all the fittings I want, she'll just have some loose lining. No biggie. I'm happy with the stays, a few concerns, but overall I'm quite pleased. I'll post more on those later. This is already a monster post.

Lots of fabric!

Finally, here are pictures of her fabric and how it will be used in the gown. Sapphire just got married in India (I'm still annoyed with myself for not going, damnit.) so she did some serious fabric shopping while there. With the fabrics I'm about to show you, I want to make a PSA announcement. The fabrics are not die hard accurate. So please don't take this as 100% accuracy. This gown is about what Sapphire wants, not about being a museum piece. With that, the fabrics are silk, and fabulous, and the color of the main fabric is perfect for the time period. This gown should turn into something really fun and very atomic cupcake. I'm really excited. The sari fabric is quite sheer, and she wanted to incorporate all 3 fabrics into her gown, so we'll be using the champagne fabric with a pretty paisley print and a nice weight as an under petticoat. I believe it will bring a nice volume as well as movement to the gown. The border of the sari is just stunning and matches the solid silk perfectly.

It's a unique combination of fabrics, colors, and prints, but once completed it should be fantastic. I'm already loving it right now, so I'm just assuming it will be better when completed.

That's it for now with sewing. I'll write about her stays later. Right now I need to get back to paper stuff. Wee! (P.S. Doesn't the picture on the right have a disheveled 17th century look to it? Minus the modern kitchen in the back?) <3 <3

Survey Takers & Other News

2011-02-17T05:41:00.001-05:00

are awesome. I've just finished my first filter through 66 (!!!) pages of survey results. I've closed the survey (I only have 1 month now to get the presentation together), and in total I had around 262 people participate in this survey.

Thank you so very very much. Seriously, Thank You.

From your responses I will be able to not only get together a solid presentation, that will hopefully be inspiring as well as informative for the conference goers, but I will also be able to share your opinions in general on what makes for a good costume history blog, and what doesn't. What, we, as bloggers need to do to help readers, lurkers, and other bloggers in order to progress costume history research and construction.

Off topic, get this, Jane Malcolm-Davies of The Tudor Tailor is presenting at the same conference as I am. I die. I die and have gone to costume historian heaven. Hopefully, I'll be a good little historian and get my camera skills flexing.

Anyways, with the survey results, I will be working on the blog posts for my results sometime in late March or April (probably April). My presentation is on the 18th of March, so I wont be releasing any information until after that point.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In other news, I know this is kind of an awkward way to "announce" this, but there are going to be some major changes going on here and for me personally. Some of you already know this, and some of you don't, but I have decided to move back to the US in March. This is largely due to the insanity and lethargy that has taken over me due to unemployment and slight isolation living in a small city in Sweden. F & I are still together, and we are going to try to figure out what to do to make it work, though we'll have to battle the beast known as US immigration.

The only bad thing about this move is leaving F again, for an unknown amount of time. (Let's not discuss it, I'm going to cry. But he is visiting in the summer for about a month, focus on the positive...). However, from a career, academic, and sewing point of view, this is really good for me. I don't know if you've noticed, but I haven't been updating much here. This is because, other than the project's I'm working on for Sapphire, I have nothing here in regards to costume history. I have a couple books and a lot of fabric. That's it. I have no mannequins, no dissertation information and resources, patterns, etc. It's been really hard to try and write about something where I have no way to verify my information (and according to survey results, many of you really want your citations (amen). So, obviously, I'm not comfortable writing things about historical accuracy, with anything, when I have no way to confirm what I know (or think I know). Thus, I don't really write much.

I am planning on revamping this blog, I have acquired some awesome pieces from my family as well as personal collecting of garments and fashion plates, and I want to share them with you and write about what I know. I have costumes to start working on, and will be able to blog about, etc. So, hopefully, with my return to the US, I will get myself in gear and be able to be a better blogistorian (Har har I just made up a new word!).

So, that's it for now, I'll post more later. Right now, I've finally bothered to start putting in the lining to Sapphire's stays, and I am also, hopefully, going to get some pictures, etc, of fitting her Robe a la Polonaise to her. I have the mockup done, but it's not fitted.

Ok, over and out.

P.S. This is my 100th Post! YAY!

<3 <3

Come on Spring!

Pin Cusions: A Memory.

2011-01-28T08:11:00.000-05:00

(First though, I want to say a very big THANK YOU to everyone who has taken my survey. I have had over 200 people participate. This is nothing short of amazing, and the results now will serve as a strong foundation to my research. Thank you thank you thank you!)

Now it's time for a funny story.

During the summer of 2007 I had a dream internship with Colonial Williamsburg. Four days a week I was working in the Millinery Shop studying and practicing millinery and mantua making while also putting my interpreter skills to good use. The other day (Tuesday, if you're interested) I would spend with Linda Baumgarten, the head curator of costume and textiles at CW. Needless to say, it was awesome.

Here's the thing about me. I'm a klutz. A super super super klutz, and sometimes I'm a bit ditzy. I can't help it. With that, we also wore pockets everyday with our 18th century clothing, as any intelligent 18th century woman/interpreter/reenactor would. They were big pockets. Lots of room to put things in it and carry with me to keep my hands free. (Wallets, cell phone, car keys, thimble, some thread, needle case, etc etc, maybe some ribbon...often times I looked like I had a growth on my leg...but that was usually around lunch when I would go out into the real world in costume...man I love pockets...) I love my pocket. Love it.

I, being an intern, didn't really have anything to carry my stuff downstairs with when it was the milliners turn to be interpreting. So usually, I held what I could and put the rest in my pocket. (You're seeing where this is going, aren't you? oh yes.) As a result, my pin pillow often ended up in my pocket because it was the most awkward item I carried downstairs with me. I did this...a lot. Seriously. I made this pin pillow too, by the way. It was crimson and cream (Go Hoosiers!).

There was one major mistake with my pin pillow. I though it was fully stuffed, it was not thick enough or stuffed enough to fully hold the pins...so sometimes they would poke through the other end. Acutally, they often stuck through the other end.

Well, one brilliant day, I was making my way downstairs to start our turn in the shop and I, being a genius, put my pin pillow in my pocket. I get downstairs and put my stuff on the table and sit down without readjusting my petticoats.

All of the sudden I'm getting the worst TB test in my bum. EVER. Yes. Oh. Yes. My pillow had attached itself to my rear (more like upper thigh, but you get the drift). The pin pillow needed to be removed, so I, laughing from shock, delicately removed the pillow from my backside. Then, the mistress of the shop had to apply the medical attention (band-aid and peroxide) to my rear since it was impossible for me to reach. Oh, and we're fairly confident I won the 'most ridiculous accident report of the year' award.

I was very proud. Very proud.

And I still have a bad habit of putting sharp objects in my pocket. Oops.

This was taken around the same time of the self inflicted puncture wound. Give or take a couple weeks.

I need your help! (If you have a blog can you please repost & pass the link along?)

2011-01-18T04:39:00.001-05:00

Hello everybody!

I know I haven't written on here in ages, but there has been a lot of things going on personally that have affected my blogging. I will update you all when the time is right, but there are just a lot of changes going on here that I have needed to focus on more than anything else.

With that being said, one major project I have going on is that I am presenting a paper at a conference. Yes. I know. Do you want to know what this paper is about?

It is about you.

Yes.

You.

I will be presenting a paper about how our costume history blogging community has affected costume interpretation in a variety of aspects as well as discussing the potential role museums could play in our lovely little online niche. However, it is not like there are books or articles devoted to this subject (at least according to my research). So I need to make my own research. This means, I need your help.

Desperately.

I need you to take a survey for me. I wrote it myself, I tried to make it entertaining, and interesting. Basically this is your chance to have a voice about our community. Tell me what you love, what you hate, what you do and what you think. Your thoughts are valid and very much needed. You'll be doing me a huge huge favor! (and of course after the paper I will give you all the results!)

Historical Blogs, Museums, & You -Survey <---click here to take the survey!

Also, if you have a blog, please please please repost this link! I really need a huge number of responses and you are really, my only hope!

Alright guys, time for me to get back to it....

I'm looking forward to hearing back from you!!!

<3 Abby

F & I as silent film stars (stereotypes) NYE 2010

Trolls and Warnings for other wannabe trolls.

2010-12-05T21:44:00.000-05:00

In the blogging community we all deal with one annoyance, trolls. For whatever reason, pathetic, cowardly people sit at their computers and try to spread their negativity around by snarky, unintelligent, aggressive, rude, ridiculous, incorrect, assumptive, hateful, and just unwanted opinions. Well, I received one on my travel blog 2 years ago (Click Here-it's a hoot and a half). And today, I checked my email to see I had received an anonymous comment. I allow Anons, just because sometimes it's family members who don't know to add a name in certain places, or it's a quick comment so it just gets skipped. I allow it, but this also allows ignorant pox stains on humanity to add their unwanted 2 cents. Here's the gem I got.

Anonymous said...
Just in case you didn't know: the incroyables were gay.

This gem, is from a old post writing about the incroyables and F and the masquerade ball. (Click Here) . It's old. The incroyables post does get a lot of hits due to search engines and the like, but no one comments on it, ever. Just anon readers who go on their merry way. Well, Anon here I guess felt compelled to make this stupid comment, which is at its core, incorrect (irregardless of whom the incroyables preferred sexually, they were all individuals, with individual preferences). I'll address the insult to my boyfriend and homophobia later. (And just a warning, this is a doozy post.)

Homosexuality and the concept of 'gay' did not exist.

It. did. not. exist.

Sodomy did exist, but I also learned in my History of American Sexualities class, that same sex relationships were not like they are today. Behavior we would consider 'lesbian' or 'gay' were just...whatever. Because the idea of homosexuality did not exist. Women were more physically affectionate with each other, (any of us who have read The Duchess are aware of Georgiana's relationships with her female friends) and there are letters of men discussing their bed sharing during travels and any events that might have occurred during the night. This was just life, due to the lack of labeling and the social wide concept that marriage and procreation were of the utmost importance, no one really considered not doing those things (and if they were inclined to the same sex, sexually, it was usually done in the form of private affairs, which does not always denote gay/straight/bi, if you believe in the Kinsey scale). Of course, this can get overally complicated and technical due to information on specific people and also the cases of women's rights, how we know that there were men and women who were open about their desire to be with the same sex over the opposite sex, but regardless, for the vast majority of people, and the general mindset of the past. Homosexuality did not exist.

Ergo, if the concept of homosexuality did not exist, one could not, technically, be 'gay' in the homosexual sense. A lot of people were gay, but that's when gay meant happy.

So, Anon, you are wrong, they couldn't be gay (Unless, you meant happy, but I'm taking the most modern interpretation of the word gay here...I'm sure you understand why). Some, a few, maybe all (but historically speaking you can never include all subjects into one category, it's factually impossible for large groups of people) enjoyed sodomy to some extent, but we can't for sure know that. There can be clues, etc, but nothing is set in stone. It's just common sense.

Secondly, to me, your comment seems to be based off of the fact that incroyables were flamboyant, and in modern society, flamboyant = gay. Well, Anon, if I used that logic, all anonymous posters would be pathetic excuses for human beings. But that's not true. There are a lot of Anon posters on here who are lovely people. You give them a bad name. Shame on you.

With the flamboyancy, anyone with any idea of costume history, social history, any history, would know that men were not men like today, and are confused, restrictive, sometimes unhealthy (a lot of times unhealthy) concept of the male gender and masculinity. During the 18th century, especially in France, men wore clothes that were just as beautiful as the women's gowns. Had jeweled encrusted waistcoats, buckles, buttons, etc. Wore makeup, wigs, and wore (shock) pink. OH My GOD! THEY MUST BE GAY! No. We've already discussed how that's impossible. No...then what?! Oh, that's right. It's called, say it with me, culture. Culturally, this was normal for men.

So now, I believe we're clear that when taking an intelligent historical view on incroyables, that your assumption they were all gay is just simply, well, stupid, incorrect, obviously wrong, ignorant, homophobic, trollish, snarky, (am I missing anything here, dear friends?), dumb, hateful, unwanted, annoying, and just causing you a lot of pain because you are clearly someone who needs to spread negativity in places were people are happy. Here's a clue, don't come here for your release of negativity, go see a therapist, and get offline.

Also anon, I know you were just trying to be snide about the fact my (obviously) heterosexual boyfriend was dressing in an incroyable style, and the snarkiness of your post hints to the fact that because my boyfriend has fantastic hair (I did blog a little too enthusiastically about it, I admit, but he does have great hair.) and is good looking, must be gay. Again, homophobic, clearly incorrect, ignorant and hateful. Also attests to the issues with the concept of masculinity in many cultures around the world. Get a clue, grow up, and get a life.

Finally, let this just serve as a notice to all wanna be trolls. Get a life. No one thinks you're funny and no one, ever, ever ever ever finds you intelligent. You may think you're funny, or witty, etc, but all the rest of the public and readers (especially in a relatively close knit historical costume blogging community), find you nothing more than a pathetic, ignorant, unwanted, pox just desperately trying to make other people feel bad about themselves, just like you, kind of sad, isn't it? Just buzz off, you're going to do nothing more than get your ass handed to you by people who actually know what they're talking about.

And seriously, if you think you're that correct, then stop being a coward and own up to your opinion. Because, it's just laughable that you're not only ignorant, but so much of a coward you can't even add your name to your comments. Own it.

Sincerely,

Abby, The authoress.

P.S. Thanks for giving me material to write about, I was feeling a bit writers block, jerk.

Updates, sewing, and Empirical Russia.

2010-11-21T05:07:00.000-05:00

Well, I've been fairly busy over here in snowy dreary Sweeeden. It's great. Love it. Love it so much I'm going home for 3 weeks tomorrow to get the last bit of that Indian Summer before Thanksgiving. (70 and sunny-ish tomorrow when I get home. I think I might end up being arrested for ripping off my layers of clothing and running naked in the streets of Louisville.....I can't wait to look at the search engine results over the next couple of weeks and see what kind of traffic is coming to this blog.) Anywaysss-- I've been working on Sapphire's stays, and they're now ready for a fitting. I'm giving the replica whaleboning a go...so far it seems like it might be ok. We'll find out tonight when I do a quick fitting on her...

In other news, you can pop over to my 'Sweden' blog and read about my adventures in Swedish Healthcare. It's a doozy. Hope you don't mind the discussion of blood...I hate blood. I hate giving blood, and I hate seeing blood. Apparently so much, it affects me greatly. But I wrote the story with the whole hating blood issue, so it shouldn't be too bad if you are a bit sensitive.

And finally, since I'm too lazy to upload pictures of the stays, and let's be honest, they're beige. I'll post pictures later.. I did find something pretty freaking awesome on Huffington Post. Kind of along the likes of the Times pictures, but even more fabulous.

Russian Empire. Turn of the 20th Century. COLORED PHOTOGRAPHS. I know. Right?!

I die.


Emir of Bukhara, 1910

Dagestani Women, 1910


Three Young Women, 1909


Kebab Restaurant, Between 1905-1915 (Kebab Restaurants, the original fast food. har)

Just click on any of the links to take you to the other photographs...they're stunning and very interesting...black and white photographs are beautiful and helpful, but these photographs just bring 100 years ago immediately to the present and back to life...so vivid, so real, so now, so magical.
Enjoy!

Life Magazine has a Good Sense of Humor.

2010-11-08T15:21:00.000-05:00

Life also has great photographs, too, over many different things, but what I've noticed recently is that they have a decent collection of fashion related images. For example, they have an online photo collection of Trends from the 90s...because the 90s are the new 80s...for those of us 20-somethings who wish to feel old and slightly nostalgic, we can just look at the theme party census taken this year from major universities: 1990s theme parties have gone up in popularity...please excuse me while I go check for new gray hairs (yes I said new...don't get me started.)

Anyways, before I get going on another rant, what I really wanted to write about was this beauty: Young Women Dressed Appropriately. It is a collection of photos starting with good ol' Flo Nightengale (can we discuss how fabulous her name is?) going to the 1960s. Witty titles are included with fantastic photographs of women doing assorted activities such as:

Dressed for Household Chores in 1847

Dressed for Mirror-Gazing in 1858

Dressed for Being Fabulously Wealthy in 1911 (this is a personal favorite)

Dress for Riding a Firecracker at the Beach in 1950 (I know...right?)

Anyways, there are a lot of pictures if you follow the link. Enjoy!

<3 <3

Happy Halloween!

2010-10-31T09:36:00.000-04:00

Happy Halloween from Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel!

Or Flight of the Concords as Simon and Garfunkel...

...It's really up to you...

:)

This makes me nervous...

2010-10-29T14:06:00.001-04:00

I've been working on Sapphire's stays this week, and they're coming along really well.

This makes me nervous. Usually, I should have screwed something up majorly by now..but...so far..so good...eek.

Original Pattern...Can we discuss how small these pieces are? Seriously.
And how ugly that rug is? Don't even get me started on that beast.

What I did wayy before now was pattern the stays and make a really fast flimsy mockup in 2 layers of muslin. Just so that way I could see how the shape is on her, does it fit, etc. And really, I was quite pleased with it. I felt it was too long, which was weird because I patterned it to her measurements, but...whatevs. Anways, after fitting it, I did the minor adjustments I felt were necessary (shortening) and fixing the armhole some.

Side view. She will have more 'oomph' once it was laced up properly. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked it.


I am very pleased with how the front piece looks and the neckline.

You can also see from the pictures that I made a crease to shorten the stays just to see what happens, and I was very pleased with how that turned out. I was also shoving a busk down her front to give the front part of the stays more structure so she had a better idea of what to expect. I also draped the shoulder straps to her so that way there will be no peeking of stays with her gown.

I've ordered synthetic whalebone to bone her stays with...I'm excited to use it, but a bit apprehensive at the same time...but I've heard good reviews so I am expecting to be very pleased with the results.

What I've been doing these past two days have been repatterning, cutting, and bone layout designing. I've opted to use 3 layers. Two of these layers are very sturdy cotton canvas and the inner layer is a thick, sturdy, but soft cotton interfacing/fleece type fabric. I will also line the fabric, either in a muslin or a linen that I have stashed away.

I've also been having a lot of fun with the boning design. Sapphire's so tiny that she does not need fully boned stays, but I wanted to make sure that the boning was around so that way she had the structure and also the lift that she wanted.

2nd Piece

Front piece

My goal with the large Xs on the front pieces is that they will hit her at her bust (X marks the spot..bar har har....sorry.) And the V from the top of the X will create a lifting for her bust that she wants to have. We'll see though..at least they look cool..right? right?

I also opted out of adding seam allowance to anything that is not a seam, revolutionary, I know. But I just can't help but to be a bit nervous about omitting seam allowance..like I'm breaking a rule or something....it's thrilling really...

I'm such a rebel. har.

But that's where I'm at now, just waiting for my boning to come in and then once I'm all clear with the boning channels then I'm sewing this sucker together, wham bam thank ya ma'am. Sapphire's gonna have herself a pair of bonafide lady's stays.

Holla.

Don Draper is my other boyfriend Pt. 1

2010-10-24T08:46:00.000-04:00

Last weekend Fredrik and I had our official housewarming soireé, or, as it is called in Sweeeden, "Inflyttningsfest"- literally: in moving party. See, you learn something new everyday...well...except for my Swedish readers..you already knew that.

Anyways-

Back in July, Fredrik made my world a better place by telling me he had the first season of Mad Men. I squealed, because, Mad Men started when I was in college, and unlike most college girls I knew/know, I was miserable at keeping up with weekly TV shows. I had better things to do. Like study...or....hangout with Laura and Melinda who didn't have tvs...psh. whatevs. Needless to say, I remember wanting to watch Mad Men when it first aired, but I had missed the first episode, so I tried to watch it like half way in the season, and I'll tell ya...it wasn't smart. I was confused, uninterested, and bored. So I went back to learning about Seuxality in Renaissance and Baroque art, because spending three weeks talking about male genitalia in art is that riveting. I kid you not.

So this summer, I finally got to start watching Mad Men. I. was. hooked. (Duh, fabulous costumes, sold already.) When the subject of having a housewarming party came up, I decided a Mad Men theme was the way to go. Gives everyone an excuse to dress up. What's not to love...really?

It also gave me an excuse to make a fabulous dress...and for Fredrik to take a comb to his hair for the first time since he was about 14.

I was going to try and be good and chronicle the dress making process...but we've all been there. I took like...2 photos...so whatever. But I can tell you about it and give you my oh so not important opinions on the pattern.

Ok. Here is what you need to know:

Pattern: Vouge Very Easy Dress Custom Fit V8615

It's a pattern I had in my stash because I love longer sleeves, and full skirts, and it just looked fab (it is fab). It's not a dead on accurate 1960s pattern, but it has a lot of similarities to pieces I saw in Mad Men (particularly the Christmas Party scene, Season 4 Ep. 2. Don's secretary is wearing something strikingly similar, just not in hounds-tooth.)

Done. Now. I needed a fabric. Ok. Well I wanted this party to be swanky, so I needed to look swanky.

Little did I realize Linköping fails majorly in the fabric department.

Damnit.

I literally looked for weeks and weeks, (sometimes multiple times in a week in the same store, thinking that maybe they would get a magic shipment in of beautiful patterned silks of some variety. Stupid me.

Eventually my friend Emilie told me about a fabric store she found randomly in a random section of city centre. So, I figured what the hell, hopefully they'll have something.

Fabulous? Or Fabulous?

They did. But it was in cotton. But I loved it anyways, and bought a fake poly satin of a heavier weight to help give the dress some guts instead of floaty cotton (which is very Betty Draper early seasons).

I also conveniently had a zipper that was the perfect length and color for the project. Done and Done.

After gathering my supplies, I set out to work (over a 1 month random spurt of sewing until the very end mad rush variety). Overall I found the pattern to be easy to follow, mostly. I have issues with how they word instructions in the patterns and their random close up shots that really just leave me more confused than before. Put it was coming together nicely, other than the stupid mistakes I made. They are:

1. Forgetting to take out the seam allowance in the front bodice pieces. This resulted in a last minute random stitching of the bodice ruining the flower pattern. Annoying.

2. I decided to overcast stitch all the crap poly late into the game (when I realized it sheds worse than my dog in August), and so it affected the measurements for some of my pattern pieces. I had to recut the sleeves.

3. I put the pockets on wrong. Didn't realize until I was supposed to finish the skirt.

4. I miss cut the skirt slash for the zipper. Luckily, it wasn't as much of a disaster as it could have been. I thank the sewing gods.

5. My darts looked a little...um.....perky? Cold? Catch my drift? I think I fixed it, but darts are a bit confusing for me. I'm not used to them.

But over all the dress came together nicely. I'm happy with it, and Fredrik likes it much better than the strawberry dress I made (it's fabulous, but Fredrik thinks it makes me look pregnant...) I would recommend the pattern to basically everyone...unless you're a dude.

Plastic Housewife

Coming Soon...

2010-10-23T16:01:00.000-04:00

Skye, he's special.

2010-10-20T11:20:00.002-04:00

This is Skye. He's a very special pony. Here is a list of reasons why he is special:

1. He was the first baby that my mom bred, from our other horses, Woody and Cowgirl (very original names, I know.)

2. He has a shooting star on his back leg. Do you see it?

3. His first emergency vet visit was when he was a couple days old and didn't get enough of the colostrum from Cowgirl.

4. Another time he went to the hospital because he somehow managed to rip his eyelid off. Don't really know how, and I'm glad I wasn't there.

* 4.1 There was ANOTHER time he had an emergency. He knocked his front tooth out when he was little. I forgot about this. I'm glad my mother reminded me. I can't believe I forgot about it, because he looked ridiculous. It made me laugh [edit]

5. He wears a special collar because he cribs, because he's...special.

6. He gets picked on by his younger brother and his mother.

7. He's smart. So smart, that he knows that running around in circles for no obvious reason is stupid. So he just stands and watches his mother and brother run around in circles. This is probably why he gets picked on by them.

8. That picture of him and Jonathan (who is breaking Skye and his younger brother Bo currently) was taken, I believe, not too long ago. He didn't start working with Skye until this summer, and Skye is so damn good that he's totally cool with the cute baby on his back.

9. Skye got the whole idea of riding and listening in about 2 days, according to Jonathan and my mother. This goes back to his, 'Why would I run around in circles over what appears to be nothing?' mentality. This is his, 'Ok, So it is easier to do what they want than argue, this makes my life easier. I like easy. I'll just do what they want then.'

10. According to my mom, he's very good at stopping (in regards to reining).

Hopefully my allergies wont ruin my life and I'll actually get to ride him when I go home without having my eyes swell shut.

Off Topic: Mad Men party pictures and discussion coming soon. I'm just too lazy to upload all the pictures on blogger at the moment.

***P.S. For a total list of all of Special Ed's adventures, please read my mother's blog Enchanted Botanicals. She's his momma, and therefore is better at remembering than I am.

2 of my favorite things!

2010-10-05T13:53:00.001-04:00

The 1930s/40s and SHOES!

I just randomly (through the beauty that is Facebook) found these shoes online. They're relatively affordable, and based off of actual vintage shoes. They look divine... heaven for my feet.

Aris Allen Ladies Black and Silver 1930s Swing Dance Shoes


Their 1930s shoes


Their 1940's shoes, also comes in all black. Divine.

I die. Red. Suede. 1930s. I. Die.

I'm also currently obsessing over oxfords in general, so these adorable black and white pair would be so lovely with so many of my current ensembles. The red shoes are just simply killer, as are the black and silver shoes. So wonderful!

There is just something about a fabulous pair of shoes that just makes me warm and fuzzy inside.

Meet Greta.

2010-10-03T09:17:00.000-04:00

She is my lovely new sewing machine (who is now over a month old).

Please ignore the sewing mess behind her, that's my Mad Men dress in progress.

Following in my tradition of naming my sewing companions (of the non-human variety) with a slightly Germanic, old name beginning with the letter G, I decided on Greta. Since she is from Sweden (though made in some far away Asian country, but we'll overlook that for this purpose), I wanted to give her a good, old, Swedish appropriate name. Thus the naming game ensued, and we came up with Greta. She is distantly related to her cousin Gunther who lives in Scotland with his new mommy Naomi (also a Janome), and will hopefully one day meet Gertrude and Gail my dressmaking dummies.

So far so good with Greta. She does all sorts of fancy things with her little light up buttons. I mean, how did I function without the automatic Up/Down Needle function or the Automatic Finish? Talk about making this easy! Hell, some things she doesn't even need me to help her. I just can push start and off she goes. Her tortoise/rabbit speed option is lovely as well. Keeps me from going too fast and making a mess of things. And can we discuss the top bobbing with the see-thru case? Talk about easy and convenient. Awesome. She also has a foot pressure adjustment which has been making a huge difference for me. Let's just say, I'm a very happy camper with her, and for the amount I ended up paying for her. I hope my children or grandchildren will be able to sew on her one day.

As far as I know this model is not available in the US (DC 4030), which I think is a bit of a shame, because she is ridiculously easy to use. Literally, you just push the button. Once for the first stitch, Twice for the second, and the button will light up Green/Orange depending on the stitch. The letters below tell you what foot you want to use for the stitch.

Easy. I love easy. Especially since it was not too long ago sewing machines gave me panic attacks.

The Overcast Stitch

2010-09-25T14:19:00.000-04:00

is very very helpful when you're stupid and buy crappy poly/satin that frays miserably.

I knew there was always a reason why I bought real silk. This would never happen.

The 17th Century has NEVER looked this good.

2010-09-16T04:52:00.000-04:00

So I was poking around on the internet and I came across this beau-ti-ful picture on The Daily Mail.

Well...hello there! What's your name? The Duke of Buckingham? What? You're the villian of the new The Three Musketeers movie?

Well, if that's the case, bad has never looked this good. So good and so bad.

In the article they actually have a ton of pictures, and this one was also a favorite (more for the humorous quality).

I just find it funny that they're smoking, Christopher Waltz walking next to a guy in camo and sneakers. ...can we talk about the one girl's shoes?! wee!

I'm officially very excited about this movie.

*All images came from The Daily Mail article and the images are copyrighted to xposurephotos.com. However, most of the article is about the dashing Mr. Bloom's marriage and baby making to Miranada Kerr. Blah. But there are tons of pictures of filming in the article!

Boardwalk Empire

2010-09-16T00:00:00.005-04:00

I. Am. SO. EXCITED!

This looks Ah-mazing. HBO's new series set in Atlantic City, 1920s, Fabulous.

Being an HBO series, I have extremely high expectations for the costumes. Extremely.

Will you be tuning in? :)

Romantic Fluffy-ness

2010-09-15T08:57:00.000-04:00

Today is 2 years of silliness for Fredrik and I!

We're so silly, we started dating the day after we met, and are still going strong 2 years later. It's crazy to think about, honestly. We're celebrating tonight by going to see Toy Story 3 in 3D (I'm very excited!)

Now, a cheesy photo-montage for your viewing pleasure.

When we first started dating...as you can see, nothing has really changed.

Our first Halloween.

Amy Winehouse and Bllaaaaaaaaake!

In Paris, on a balcony, watching the Eiffel Tower light up

I don't think I need to explain this photo..do I? :)

Yes, he does actually fix my hair...sometimes.

It's been fun so far...let's see what happens next. :) <3 <3

There is a reason why I majored in 'the arts'.

2010-09-10T04:11:00.000-04:00

I started drawing out the stay patterns yesterday. A bit of based off measurements, a bit haphazard guessing (I forgot about some random measurements that would have been good to know, but overall it's nothing that can be easily adjusted in a fitting).

Then of course, I realize that I'm drafting according to Sapphire's exact measurements....crap.

Ok, so I need to have plenty of 'gap-age' in the back. Which mean's I whacked off a 1/2 inch on each piece. Being a 4 piece stay pattern, that's 2 inches on each side, totalling 4 inches total. I'm also taking into consideration a 'post-Greece "weight gain" ' weight loss. Not that she really has room to loose weight. By taking down 4 inches on her measurements this means that the bust measurements are 24" and her waist is 20". Seriously.

I'm tempted just to steal stays from the Nordiskmuseet.

Anyways- What I want to know, is how the hell did I manage to take off the necessary measurements, and the waist came out perfect, but the bust was only a 1/4 inch smaller than the original measurements? What the hell did I do? Ugh. I hate math. Grrr.

Yeah, that pretty much sums it up.

Lindy Hopping in Sweden

2010-09-08T04:57:00.000-04:00

Yesterday Fredrik and I attended our first Lindy Hop lesson.

When we signed up, I had kind of ... er ... forgot(?) that they would not be teaching the class in English, but Swedish (duh).

So yesterday was our first class, and I was a bit nervous about the language barrier, there is almost a perfect male/female ratio which was nice, so I didn't know if they were going to make us change partners around. Especially since we signed up with 'a partner'. Fredrik translated for me most of the time, but then we started going in circles and the girls moving to different partners. Well, it was interesting...had some surprise interpreters along the way. Though I would have preferred just dancing with Fredrik the whole time, but hey, we all know how this goes, everyone's gotta meet everyone the first day to play the get to know you game. It's always so awkward! Is there anyone that actually really enjoys the awkward 'get to know you' pressure of these first lessons?

I was really happy with the class. We were all actually dancing by the end of it, which really says a lot on the energy of the class and the work the teachers did. They have different levels, and if I read the Swedish correctly, the next levels you learn the Charleston, which I am extremely interested in learning, I have a whole playlist on Spotify devoted to Charleston music. Mildly obsessed. Yes.

And I survived it in Swedish. Surprisingly, it wasn't that bad. I know a little bit, and the step was the standard back step-triple step- triple step- which I knew from ballroom in college. We'll see how it goes next week I guess, and as time goes on. They teach 'social dance' Lindy Hop, so none of the acrobatics or training for competitions. Actually, when the teachers danced for us initially I got a bit sad because they looked so much like my grandparents whenever they dance. So the social dancing aspect is good. It takes a lot of pressure off of people. However...I really really want to be able to do this...

<3 <3

Another One Bites the Dust

2010-09-01T17:00:00.000-04:00

I'm ticked.

No. Really.

Pissed.

Felicity Merriman did not survive the Revolution. The American Girl Company has 'archived' her.

First, it was Samantha, the 1904 rich girl living up life in New York City before World War 1 and the Spanish influenza.

Last year, it was Kirsten Lar(s)son. The girl I have to thank for impressing my then new boyfriend with my knowledge of Swedish customs, like St. Lucia. Plus, we had matching outfits.

Now, they've gone too far. TOO FAR. Felicity is next. Gone. For whatever stupid reason, they are getting rid of the original American girl dolls (and replacing them with stupid ones like Julie from the 1970s. Really? Are we that old already that the 1970s doll from San Fransisco is necessary? And why 1970? Wouldn't 1965 been a bit more interesting? Have a Sally Draper doll. She goes on adventures, kinda, plus her dad is smokin'...though a bit of an alcoholic. But I digress (been watching way too much Mad Men.)

But seriously, Felicity was one, if not the, (ok, maybe I'm a bit biased, but I did read all of the original books of all the girls) coolest American girl. She was spunky and a patriot, and not the kind that wear stupid t-shirts that have unintentionally funny references to tea-bagging and tea-baggers. She was interesting and inspiring, giving young girls someone to relate to while studying a massively important event in my home country's history. Without her, it is battles and politics and generals. It's hard to focus on that kind of history, let alone be interested. Felicity was a brilliant way to teach girls about history. That's why they started these dolls, is it not? If it is, then why are they getting rid of the really important dolls? I know they are being replaced, but did they have to get rid of really the only 18th century doll? What are they going to replace her with? Mary Sells, the pilgrim American girl? Sarah Proctor, Salem Witch Trials American Girl? (That would be cool....).

Just the summer alone I was in Williamsburg, I witnessed, at least a couple times a day (always more than one, always), where a little girl who came into the Millinery Shop holding her Felicity doll (now with that ugly purple dress, but that's a different rant for a different day) sometimes, her mother would have made her and her Felicity matching outfits to wear. Occasionally (especially if a younger sister was involved), there would be Elizabeth, Felicity's Loyalist friend, tagging along. I know that those little girls wanted to come to Williamsburg, because they loved Felicity so very much, and they wanted to see where she lived. They were able to go to a real place and learn about real people during a very special and interesting time in history. That is so much better for that wanting to watch the next Barbie Fairy Princess video with crappy computer animation. They are learning, interested, and engaged in what has happened in history, this no doubt will help them along in the future when they're older. You really did learn something from Felicity (and Kirsten and Samantha).

Now that Felicity is gone...who will inspire those little girls to want to see where she lived and learn and become more interested in history?

I'm really bummed....and ticked.

R.I.P. Felicity Merriman, you will be missed, by girls from the the littlest, to 20+ year old women who remember screaming their brains out when they saw you in the white Pleasant Company box for their birthday...and her parents still have it on video....

Can we discuss...

2010-08-31T14:09:00.000-04:00

...how fabulous this portrait is?

A Portrait of a Young Lady (Yermolai Kamezhenkov, 1790)

I know that it was said that pink and other colors were used for hair powder..but seriously, her hair is pink. pink. And her hair bow! Pink and Black.

I've never seen this portrait before...

Obsessed.

A Fashionable Wedding

2010-08-29T05:36:00.000-04:00

Ladies and Gentlemen, I have an announcement:

Friend and fellow expat blogger Sapphire is getting married! (Had you all fooled there for a moment, didn't I? hehe). She, being fabulous and maybe a bit mental (only in the best possible way) has asked me to make her a gown.

Not just any gown. No no no, but an 18th century inspired gown for her wedding(s). See, she's a lot like me, American fell in love with a Swede, but for an added bonus, she's also Indian. This means she gets to have multiple weddings, and she would like an over-the-top, once-in-a-lifetime, chance to really just go all out and have a lot of fun with her gown and her wedding.

I, of course, am a willing and overly excited participant.

Now, here are the details:

The main goal of this wedding ensemble is to be 18th century heavily and seriously inspired, but not a total slave to accuracy. What this means, is it will be draped 18th century style, it is an accurate 18th century pattern and real fabric (no poly-blends), but we might have some fun with the fabric. Since Sapphire is Indian (and we know how popular Indian fabrics were in the 18th century!) That's the basic plan for the gown. I will be doing some machine stitching, where it is permissible (long seams in the petticoats, stays, etc), but since it is draped in the mantua technique, the majority to all of the gown will be hand stitched.

Though, it is my personal mantra to stick to as much historical accuracy as possible when it comes to 18th century gown making for myself, this is not my wedding dress. I am working to please my client. If she is not seriously concerned about having a machine involved in this dress, that is her choice, not mine. This is her fantasy, and I'm going to do my best to make it come true. This has nothing to do with my integrity for historical accuracy, it has everything to do with doing right by Sapphire. I just want to clarify that before moving on to the fun bits.

1. She's getting a proper pair of stays, which is what I will be working on first of course. She's so tiny, I'm hoping I can draft a pattern based off of extant examples and have it made up of 6 pieces instead of the usual 8-10. She's tiny, she just doesn't need that kind of work (and I can't imagine how small the pieces would be anyways.) The plan is to make it a partially boned with spiral steel, and maybe experiment with cable ties if it is needed.

2. Polonaise Polonaise Polonaise! Sapphire fell in love with the Robe a la Polonaise style gown, and has asked me to make it for her. I am really really excited about this. I think it is a perfect fit for her personality and her goal for this gown. It's over the top, but not like a Sacque gown, and it's more exciting than an English gown, it's puffy like a cupcake, girly, and fun. I am also really excited about what kind of fabric she finds. Her orders are: it must be silk. Taffeta or if she can find a sari that works, though it must be sturdy in body like a taffeta (and not like an organza). If it is a sari, then the embellishments must be small, and the overall design of the sari as antique style as possible. They still do hand embroidery in India, so the possibilities are quite exciting. From a design point of view, I think the bringing in of personal cultures that are already closely related to the period is really exciting. Yes, this dress is European in design, but we are still representing Sapphire's culture and heritage in the design, as well as having a playful moment with the raging popularity of Indian fabrics during the 18th century. I'm excited to see what fabric she decides on.

Well, that was my big announcement. More info will come, as I have it. We are still in the planning stages right now and Sapphire is on the hunt for her fabric in the USA and soon India. Luckily, we have a lot of time to work on this and get it just right. Thank goodness!

Oh! And if you want to know what her engagement party was like, check out her blog Lost In Stockholm. I've linked you right to the post on the party (Here's a hint, if you want more pictures of the awesome saris and the ceremony, click on the pictures. Be prepared to dye (har har) of fabric envy.)

That's it for now!

Blogger stats are funny.

2010-08-13T15:18:00.000-04:00

I have big news coming up, but it's a large post and will come a bit later...however...I have something else to discuss....

Has anyone been following their blogger stats on their dashboard? Well, I have, because I find it interesting (HI readers from Latvia, Ukraine, India and Japan!)

Do you know that if you google '18th century boobs' my humble blog is number 2 on the list!
NUMBER 2!

I don't know whether to be ecstatic for the traffic or just a bit concerned that that is one of the most popular searches that leads people to my blog.

Let's try these words, Stays, Weddings, Saris, Robe a la Polonaise, Trim Trim Trim, 18th Century awesomeness.

Hint. Hint. Hint.

My mom is a blogger now

2010-08-12T15:29:00.000-04:00

So my mother has started a blog about 'the farm' (aka home) and her gardening, adventures, etc.

Other than my seething jealously that my 5 year old Canon camera takes better pictures than my 'new' Nikon, I think she's doing a dandy job.

Anyways, if you're interested in garden, flowers, and history thing-ies (thus why I'm making a blurb here)

Check out her blog... The Garden of Enchanted Botanicals

Don't forget, I need help about the machine. :)

Sewing Machine..Let me upgrade ya?

2010-08-12T12:45:00.001-04:00

So..Ok.

As I have just moved to Sweden, I had to leave my sewing machine behind at home. This, was not a tragedy, as all I was using was the base Singer model. I had received it for Christmas, but with the intentions of leaving it at home for my mother to use for whenever she needed it.

Now, I am in Sweden, with an obscene amount of time on my hands (i.e. unemployed and my Swedish classes might not start till November - let's not go there. I'll post about that skit in the travel blog.) I am going to start sewing...a lot.

Not just my history stuff, though I'm going to actually get myself in gear for my 1810 dress soon. I just haven't had the motivation or the time. I have a nice assortment of patterns I had gotten while at home, and also just interested in doing other projects. Maybe expanding my horizons, if you will (how I will do this without a decent cash flow? I'm not too sure...but...eh. Details schme-tails.)

To cut to the chase, I'm going to be purchasing a new sewing machine here in the next couple of weeks. What I thought would be an easy process has now brought on some anxiety. I don't know what to do. I went to my local Sewing Machine/Vacuum Repair store/dealership and talked to the guy. He was really helpful and informative. I explained to him what I use my machine for, and that I'm more focused on handsewing, but I want a good machine because I'm starting to become more and more interested in using a machine for clothing projects (with historically accuracy in mind of course). First he recommended to me the Bernina Activa 210 for a whopping 6995 Swedish Kroner! ($945usd for those of you following at home).

What was that I heard? A gasp of intense pain to the bank account? Yes. Yes that was exactly what I heard. He described it as the Mercedes of the sewing machines. Of this I have no doubt. However, I'm not quite at the Mercedes time of my life. Fredrik also about defecated in his seat over the price, plus, he thinks it's ugly. (Can we discuss how his massive complaint was how ugly the machine was? For that much money, he expected better design. I thought for an engineer he would approve of the excellent quality of the machine. Nope. It's ugly.) The Activa 210 is their base model, but is not really a beginner beginner (with that price tag). It's completely out of the question, but I did get Fredrik to promise me a Bernina once he has worked for a couple of years and has the money to afford it.

Like an elephant. I wont forget this promise, and now I have documented it on my blog for posterity.

Next up was the higher-end beginner Janome Sewist 521 Deluxe. It was the more standard with the knobs, no extra features (Can we discuss this automatic setting for the needle always up or always down? HOLY COW I HAD NO IDEA THEY HAD THAT!) (<--The Bernina had that feature.) It was just the straight forward, cut to the chase, no bs, machine. Which is nice, but I mean...that always up down needle thing? That's the greatest thing since sliced bread for a housewife. No kidding! The price is 3295:- kr ($445). Still pricey...but I'm not quite getting all the extra fancy computerized one step features that you can get with the Bernina. However, I did do a test run on both machines and they are both so much nicer to sew on than the Singer I had. So so so smooth. The salesman, Jan, described the Sewist 521 as the 'Volkswagen' of sewing machines.

Finally, I forgot to try this one, as we only discussed it briefly is Janome's answer to the Bernina, Janom DC 4030. It's computerized, has all the fancy features and even has multiple 1 step automatic buttonholes. It's 5795:- ($784). It's the higher end, not basic, but not insanely over the top computer one either.

I legitimately don't know what to do.

Does anyone have any advice about sewing machines? My predicament? What would you do in my situation?

I'm currently leaning towards the higher end Janome as I know it will last and I will probably be happier with the purchase...but it's still a lot of money.

I'm open for any opinions, observations, recommendations, etc. What do you think?

Finally, for your enjoyment, Literally: The Viking Song.

Jackpot!

2010-07-18T10:13:00.000-04:00

I have been hit with the sewing bug, finally, again. The only downside is all of my sewing tools are at my flat in Linköping and I am currently flat and cat sitting in Kalmar (3 hours away for you nonswedes). It's fine, I have plenty of beach time to occupy my day, but the craving for historical clothing, etc has taken over. Plus, my friend has a killer soundsystem and tv in her flat.

Today, Fredrik and I went to Media Markt (its like Best Buy) and they had a huge collection of basically every BBC historical drama available. They were cheap too. A 3 pack for 149 kr (20 bucks).

I am now the proud owner of Clarissa, The Aristocrats, Under the Greenwood Tree, Life on the River, He Knew He was Right, and The Buccaneers. Also, I bought Fanny and Alexander an Ingmar Bergman film.

What film shall I watch first? Hmmmm....

I'm back in Linköping in mid August, so I will start sewing again then. I finally have the inspiration to finished ... or...begin..my 1810 gown..finally. :)

Also I've updated my other blog about Swedish beaches, if you're bored and would like something else to read. Clicky Clicky

<3

empty nest?

2010-07-05T14:39:00.000-04:00

Fredrik and I have had visitors/been out of our flat for over 10 days now.

My dear friends Jake and Laura have just left for their trip to the UK and then on home to America. The flat is very very quiet.

Um...anyone wanna come visit? We don't know what to do with ourselves now that there are only 2 of us and not 4 or 5....

Wowzers, I won an award!

2010-06-29T12:40:00.000-04:00

As I sit here recovering from my very Swedish Midsommar festivities (filled with pagan rituals and cute little blond children in folk costumes...and beer...and the beach...and serious Swedish sunburns). I saw that The Lady of Portland House has awarded me the Versatile Blogger Award (wee!)

Huzzah! Thank you very very much, Lauren!

So now I guess I have to say 7 things about me, etc so on and so forth. Um. Ok...here we go...

1. I am no longer a car driving American. I am still American, but I am now an American bicycle owner living in Sweden instead of a car owner. Her name is Nelly, she is pearl white and has a wicker basket. I'm mildly obsessed.

2. I couldn't ride a bike until I stayed in Sweden for a couple months last fall. I'm sure it was great fun watching me struggle.

3. I am allergic to chicken....don't ask what happens when I eat it.

4. I don't really care for chocolate, of any sort. I could go without it....I know..this makes me less of a woman. ;)

5. I didn't start sewing until I went to Williamsburg in 2007. I didn't start sewing with a machine until last year. Sewing machines still scare me a little bit.

6. I love fashion, and probably will never have enough closet space.

7. When I was in high school, I was a cohost of an outdoorsy tv show on the public station...geared towards hunting, fishing, and generally outdoorsy things. I am not an outdoorsy person, to say the least. There might be clips on Youtube..

Ok, so now I have to award this award to 5 other blogs... The 5 winning blogs

1. Adventures in Mantua Making. Mantua Maker in Cairo is the woman who has taught me almost everything about sewing, drafting, draping, etc. She is the go to person in regards to 18th century clothing. Very few people know more than she does. Very few.

2. The Cabbage Patch. It's written by the taylor apprentice at Colonial Williamsburg. Also, brilliant at what he does. He just started writing the blog, and I think everyone should start reading his blog and asking him questions about men's clothing, etc.

3. The Swede Life is a blog written by an American mother living in Southern Sweden. I really like her photographs and what she writes about. She seems quite cool.

4. Isis' Wardrobe she's a great read is fun to read about her historical makeup adventures and her pictures of 17th century clothing.

5. Lost in Stockholm is a blog that was originally intended to be a blog devoted to a single foreign girl in Sweden and her trying to find a good Swedish boy. Well, now she's found a Swede, is engaged, and takes fabulous photographs, plus she has funny posts about Swedish culture from an outsiders perspective.

Ok, yay....awards! :D Time to go eat some dinner and swelter in the Swedish sun that never sets. (yes!)

Jag bor i Sverige nu.

2010-06-24T06:13:00.000-04:00

I've arrived in Sweden without any disasters and Fredrik and I have moved into our first apartment in Linköping. I've bought a bike, and named her Nelly. She has a wicker basket. I love her, so much, that I use two locks so no little thugs will steal her away from me.

This weekend is Midsommar and we are off to the west coast for a weekend of revelry and my desperate attempt to avoid anything with the words SILL in it. For my non Swedish readers, that's pickled herring.

I know. Sounds delish doesn't it? Nej, tack.

I am also very pleased because I've managed to bring all of my sewing stuff minus my mannequin and machine over to Sweden. Linköping has a whole store devoted to sewing machines. I will investigate soon, once our flat is a bit more settled.

Fredrik also bought fantastic birthday presents related to sewing and antiques. I will post pictures of them eventually. I love them very much.

Ok that's all for now!

Happy Midsommar!!!

Non costume musings...

2010-05-26T10:25:00.002-04:00

June is sneaking up faster and faster every day. As exciting as it is, I am still overwhelmed by all the events that will take place. Also, F and I have a lot of things going on before I even move over that have nothing to do with the move.

Currently, he's finishing off his masters in Sweden just being a genius. I was volunteered to be his proofreader since his thesis has been written in English. Joy. I know that his work is really good and successful because I did not understand a single word of that thing. I edited it, critiqued the word use, etc. However, I could not tell you what it was about. Well, not true. It's about composite materials for a joint of some sort. Lots of tests were done. But I think it was successful.

On June 4th is his final day of 'student-life' as he is presenting and defending his work at LiU. *yay* applause applause. He is then on an official three month vacation. September of this year he starts work in Linköping (can we say YAY for that?). The job worked out as did our flat, so that Monday or Tuesday after I arrive in Sweden will be spent in a moving van traveling across Sweden and moving into our first (of probably many) flat.

This past week I have been on a holiday...some S&S if you will. Spa and Shopping. (My mom's phrase). She and I went to Santa Fe, New Mexico and stayed at the Bishop's Lodge Resort and Spa. We spent every morning in the spa (except one day was spent at the 10,000 Waves Spa also in Santa Fe--fabulous fabulous fabulous!). We had a wonderful time, found some wonderful jewelry, and had wonderful treatments at the spa. My mother truly deserved it, and I just got to benefit from it. ;)

One day was spent going to Madrid where the film, Wild Hogs was filmed. Madrid is an interesting place and we had a good time. Lots of hippies, which is always a trip. Another day, our favorite day, was spent at Bandelier National Monument where we got to see 400+ year old cliff dwellings and pueblo ruins. This was simply magical. Apparently, during the high season it can be up to a 45 minute wait just to park at the national park! We were virtually alone. Only crossing a handful of people on the path, and no one was around to disturb us as we visited the cliff dwellings and peeked inside. Words and pictures cannot do this state justice. I loved New Mexico. Here are some of the pictures I took. Please bear with me as most of them were taken from the passenger seat of a Ford Fusion named Molly. :)

Bandelier. View from over the cliff. Stunning...simply stunning.

Moi.

On the walk, cliff dwellings in the distance.

This was my favorite spot. Very quiet, it's in the cliff, dark, and green. You could hear the laughter.

Ruins with three Kivas. They think these was mainly for storage...except for the kivas which are for religious purposes.

Walking around the cliff dwellings.

<3 <3

FINALLY!

2010-04-29T17:13:00.001-04:00

My visa has been approved! Fredrik received the letter from Migrationsverket today informing us that my temporary residence visa has been granted and is good until April 2012. Now I'm just waiting for my passport to come back. (Update: Got my passport on May 1st, and my visa is pink and blue and green. It beats the UK in the pretty visa competition! ;) )

Only 49 days until I move! Wee! :D

<3 <3

Today, was a good day for fashion.

2010-04-26T16:47:00.000-04:00

Why?

Well I got to meet Zac Posen for Target (sadly only a 1/4 of the collection was at my target and hung under the Liberty of London signs.) Oopsy local Target workers! I tried on a lot of fun things (dresses) and I purchased one that was brilliantly done that is navy and black strapless with a sheer ruffled overskirt to wear. Or you can wear just the LBD alone...or add the ruffle skirt to a different outfit. Thank you Zac! What fun!

And the big surprise of the day was my mother's ebay purchases. She took a chance on a Carolina Herrera Cashmere grey jacket with a stand up collar (looks a couple seasons ago) and it didn't fit her, but it did fit me! YAY! So now I have another fabulous jacket to add to my growing collection for my move to Sweden, where, even in the summers one still needs a jacket of some sort. I will miss my blazing hot Indiana summers, even if I have cute jackets to wear.

Oh, and there should be some 1810 dressmaking afoot this week. A friend has come to visit from Williamsburg and she and I are planning a draping party. :)

<3 <3

Stay-ing Alive: Historical Dress Adventures and Ramblings

I'm so excited...

What I did on my summer (not) vacation, 2011

Burnley and Trowbridge Gown Workshop Recap

Absence

Way to go BBC!

Gown and Petticoat in a Week: Or How I Almost Died.

Help?

M.I.A.

Summer Burnley & Trowbridge *GOWN* Workshop!

Workshop Stays - Where are they now?

Moving, Insanity, etc.

The Scott Sisters' Pieces 2: Aunt May & the County Fair

The Scott Sisters' Pieces 1: Baby Clothes

The Battle of the Boning

An afternoon working with Baleen

Dear Kate

Half way point

Ethics, Culture, and Controversy - Baleen.

Epic Stays Workshop Post - Ya Ready?

Neener Neener Neeeeeeennnerrrr

Give Away Winner!

My Quarter Life Crisis and Prepping for a Workshop

100 (now 101) Followers = A GIVEAWAY!

Thanks Dodge!

Well, Golly, I won an award!

Random Thinks on a Thursday Afternoon

Have You Hugged A Resource Today?

An Update on the Three Musketeers Movie

This is why Art Historians are awesome.

Trimming and fixing my red jacket

How to do a Weird Running Whip Stitch Thingy.

The innards of a Zone Gown

Recovery

So I talked about you.

Hold on to your skirts, book lovers.

CW in Pictures

Colonial Williamsburg: Accessories Head to Toe, or the Costume History Blogger Convention Part III

Colonial Williamsburg: Accessories Head to Toe, or the Costume History Blogger Convention: Part II

Colonial Williamsburg Part 1

Return of the 'Hog

Random Thinks on a Tuesday Afternoon

Draping a Robe a la Polonaise

Survey Takers & Other News

Pin Cusions: A Memory.

I need your help! (If you have a blog can you please repost & pass the link along?)

Trolls and Warnings for other wannabe trolls.

Updates, sewing, and Empirical Russia.

Life Magazine has a Good Sense of Humor.

Happy Halloween!

This makes me nervous...

Don Draper is my other boyfriend Pt. 1

Coming Soon...

Skye, he's special.

2 of my favorite things!

Meet Greta.

The Overcast Stitch

The 17th Century has NEVER looked this good.

Boardwalk Empire

Romantic Fluffy-ness

There is a reason why I majored in 'the arts'.

Lindy Hopping in Sweden

Another One Bites the Dust

Can we discuss...

A Fashionable Wedding

Blogger stats are funny.

My mom is a blogger now

Sewing Machine..Let me upgrade ya?

Jackpot!

empty nest?

Wowzers, I won an award!

Jag bor i Sverige nu.

Non costume musings...

FINALLY!

Today, was a good day for fashion.

Summer Burnley & Trowbridge GOWN Workshop!